Nathdwara, Gateway to the Lord

In Nathdwara it seems the clock is tuned to the activities of Shree Nath Ji everything and everyone goes by the Lord’ way no doubt the people seems a bit whimsical considering Shreeji lives here in the ‘Live Form’ of a small child who is known as the most adorable prankster.

Arriving at Nathdwara to have a quick Darshan and leave for Udaipur afterwards is not possible, you need to have a Himalayan patience. The lord is accessible but not for those in a hurry. The Darshans of Shreeji are regulated and opens up eight times day albeit in short bursts. This makes for huge serpentine queues and occasional skirmishes with those in charge of the securities.

The eight “Darshans” or “Jhankis” as they are called starts from the morning when he is waken up and ends with his going to bed early in the evening. These are termed as Mangala; Shringar; Guwal; Rajbhog; Utthapan; Bhog; Aarti; Shyan. With the exception of Shyan devotees can be a privy to the lord’s Darshan. Shyan is not always performed openly and is open to masses only on certain special occasions.

Shrinathdwara is one of the most important pilgrimages of the "Pushtmargiya Vaishnavites” whose proponent was the 15^th century scholar Vallabhacharya. A large number of pilgrims belonging to this sect and others ascend daily here from the various towns in Gujarat. No doubt Gujarat and Gujaratis have a formidable presence in this small temple town. With countless small eateries promising authentic Gujarati Thalis in various price tags, Gujarati Dharmashalas and Hotels with names written in Gujarati are prominent here.

Nathdwara is reminiscent of typical Temple towns in India where it seems very little have changed over the centuries. Constricted lanes taken away by overzealous shopkeepers selling their wares, countless sweet shops selling the favourite sweets of the lord all claiming to have been prepared with 100 % pure Milk and Desi Ghee, mishmash of overhead cables, constant stream of crowds on the road- all vying with each other for some breathing space. An ICICI ATM counter amidst the plethora of rundown shops looks some kind of a mismatch here.

If you are an enthusiastic ‘eater’ and ‘shopper’ type, who can leverage good bargains out of impossible prices, then the Chaupati Bazaar with colourful shops is the place to head for.

Navneet Priyaji or the adorable lord is everywhere in framed metallic cases, in the famed Pichhwais painting on cloth wall hangings, copper and silver vessels all make for the perfect souvenirs. After shopping, a combo of Doodh- Jalebi from Puroshottam Bhai Doodh Jalebi Wala works wonders and keeps you sustained till the main meal of a royal Gujarati or Rajasthani Thali.

Leaving Shreeji’s Haveli as the temple is known as comes with a tinge of sadness as well as with a promise- to be back again at the most opportune time.