Pachmarhi, Queen of Satpura

For people from north Pachmarhi still remains a distant dream as compared to hill stations like Shimla, Manali or even as far as those in Sikkim. So the scorching heat of Delhi and the advertisements put by MP Tourism did us in as we decided Pachmarhi to escape.

Pachmarhi nestling in the Satpura hills derives its name from the 5 caves up in a hill which was uses by the Pandava Brothers during their years of exile. During the British Raj it was used as a sanatorium for the ailing soldiers of the British Army. Gathering as much information as possible on the attractions of Saputara as on the logistics we found out that Pachmarhi has enough logistical reasons to loose out as a favoured destination for the northerners. Pipariya the closest railhead to the hill retreat (around 50 km) is not serviced by trains from Delhi. There are two choices either to get down at the state capital Bhopal which is about 195 km away or at mainline Itarsi some 120 km from Pachmarhi. We decided on the later to save on time if not costs!. So on a hot humid June night we boarded the cooler climes of the AC 3 Tier compartments of Karnataka Express to take us to Itarsi.

In the morning we reached Itarsi little aware of what was in store for us. Asking for the Taxis to cover the 120 km distance and we were stormed by an army of overzealous Drivers and their touts all eager to ferry us but for a sum or perhaps a ransom. Some demanded 2500 bugs some 2000 it was as if a free for all Tamasha with everybody trying to lift our luggage. Hungry and desperate to reach the queen of Satpurara ranges we zeroed on a Cab with the least quoted price and was on our way soon.

After some time the hilly roads started with zig-zag and sharp bends and the temperature became gentler on the skin gave us a feel of Pachmarhi at an altitude of 3555 feet.

Finding accommodation was not a problem as we had already booked accommodation with Hotel Glen View a MPTDC run hotel. The hotel as with many other State government run properties is situated at the most vantage point of the hill station giving a fascinating view of the bucolic landscape besides a being a building with historical antecedents.

The well furnished rooms were spacious and clean thus making us forget all the travails we faced on the journey from Itarsi. The hotel along with good food and cooperative staff also takes care of the laundry.

Pachmarhi is not very glamorous as compared to other hill stations there are no palaces, sight points or for that matter any other source of amusement but the woody expanse encapsulates and overwhelms you wherever you go. Sal, Mahu and Harrh trees dominate everything else.

The falls for which Pachmarhi are known tempts one to trek as most of them are quite some distance below the ground level. We visited Rajat Prapat, and then some distance away was Apsara Vihar. Then there are the Bee Fall and the somehow difficult Duchess fall.

A visit to Chauragarh merits a full day trip. Here on a hill top, a life size idol of Lord Shiva exists. As reaching the point requires climbing 1200 stairs so think twice before deciding on this arduous climb.

A must visit is the Priyadarshini point named after Smt. Indira Gandhi. It gives a panoramic view of Pachmarhi. Formerly known as Forsyth point after Captain James Forsyth, who discovered Pachmarhi supposedly from this point in 1857.

Other points include Bade Mahadev, Gupt Mahadev, Ambadevi Temple and off course if you are an wildlife buff a visit to the Satpura Tiger Sanctuary is a must.

Like all good things our brief sojurn in the hills of Satpura came to an end but not before some nasty haggling and ugly moments with the Taxi that brought us back to earth at Itarsi. Some thoughts for MP tourism to make the access easier for gullible travelers like us into this wonderful retreat.