Delhi Zoo

I do not remember when I had last visited the Delhi Zoo. Always had this fixation that animals are best left in the wild and to see them inside the cages is an upfront assault on animal rights. However this time I had to give in to the demands- a combination of family and work to make it through.

This Saturday, braving long traffic snarls and smog covered Delhi skyline we managed to reach the Zoo somehow around 2 pm. On inquiring, the parking lot Guard enlightened us that we can be inside till 6 and the last ticket is issued at 4 pm. Heaving a sigh of relief we went inside. The ticket was Rs 10 for adults and Rs 5 for kids.

A good and sign of assurance was the special emphasis on security and on taking eatables inside. There was thorough frisking. Plastic, eatables (the notorious biscuits which many overzealous visitors had often used to get friendly with the Chimpanzees or Deer) were strict no no. In my opinion even Mobiles need to be banned inside as I found some workaholics giving frenzied instruction from their mobile sets very close to the railing that separates us from Animals. This looked quite vulgar.

The Zoo is well kept with lots of greenery, though the constant sound of trains passing through the Pragati Maidan station was quite disturbing. The first to greet us were the water birds on the left hand side. A few paces ahead there was the first signage in stones which said if we follow the signage the visit could be wrapped up in 2 hours. Enticed we decided to stick to it.

Soon, we encountered our prized moment of the day the best find- Painted Storks. It seemed that these amazing birds have established a kind of Colony inside the wetlands of the zoo. Perhaps it was their nesting time and the zoo authorities equal to the task have barricaded the entire area with dried tree branches to protect their privacy. The Painted storks known in Latin as Mycteria leucocephala are about 3 feet tall and with orange bills they looked heavenly. Their flapping of wings, standing on the treetops and feeding the young ones were no less amusing to a lay visitor like me than to any ornithologist or zoologist. I bet just looking at their activities can tranquil the most fretted nerves. After spending some good 35 to 40 minutes did the thought came that we were running short of time.

Passing through enclosures for Neelgai the signboard there gave an interesting piece of Information. That Neelgai, an antelope was saved from extinction due to mindless hunting was for the sake of its name. Neelgai’s “Gai”, Hindi for Cows thus sacred in India is the saviour. A brilliant idea came to my mind, why not go on a naming spree and somehow put the “Gai “to all those animals endangered thus. Tigers, Elephants, Ghrarial( in the Ganges)- just anything and everything. The Wildlife authorities can take cognizance of this if they read this blog.

Along the designated route we passed by the enclosures of Lion Tailed Macaque, Rhinoceros (none was spotted), a number of antelopes-Cheetal, blackbucks et al, Chimpanzees (unmindful of the public gaze seemed enjoying the early winters).

Next to catch my attention was the enclosure for the Sambars Although most animals were in tolerable enclosures, the Sambars seemed huddled together and there was genuine lack of space or was it too many of them. By a rough headcount I found atleast 40 jostling for space, can the Zoo officials take note of this?

The cages for birds were another attraction Eagles, Parakeets looked majestic. A vociferous crowd of young school children passing by theses cages were imitating the shrill sounds made by the Parakeets much to their discomfiture. One of the young boys perhaps summed up their plight in right earnest when he started counting the numbers written on the cages as “Quaidi Nambar Ek, Quaidi Nambar Do……”

After seeing the Crocodiles lying as if dead near the moat we decided to call it a day and made an about turn from the "guided tour" offered by the stone signages( infact we also got deviated from them).

One last word, the Camera was missed squarely and taking it inside invited no extra amount either (video camera does). This was due to my inhibition of not to look like a ‘Camera lugging tourist’.

Pachmarhi, Queen of Satpura

For people from north Pachmarhi still remains a distant dream as compared to hill stations like Shimla, Manali or even as far as those in Sikkim. So the scorching heat of Delhi and the advertisements put by MP Tourism did us in as we decided Pachmarhi to escape.

Pachmarhi nestling in the Satpura hills derives its name from the 5 caves up in a hill which was uses by the Pandava Brothers during their years of exile. During the British Raj it was used as a sanatorium for the ailing soldiers of the British Army. Gathering as much information as possible on the attractions of Saputara as on the logistics we found out that Pachmarhi has enough logistical reasons to loose out as a favoured destination for the northerners. Pipariya the closest railhead to the hill retreat (around 50 km) is not serviced by trains from Delhi. There are two choices either to get down at the state capital Bhopal which is about 195 km away or at mainline Itarsi some 120 km from Pachmarhi. We decided on the later to save on time if not costs!. So on a hot humid June night we boarded the cooler climes of the AC 3 Tier compartments of Karnataka Express to take us to Itarsi.

In the morning we reached Itarsi little aware of what was in store for us. Asking for the Taxis to cover the 120 km distance and we were stormed by an army of overzealous Drivers and their touts all eager to ferry us but for a sum or perhaps a ransom. Some demanded 2500 bugs some 2000 it was as if a free for all Tamasha with everybody trying to lift our luggage. Hungry and desperate to reach the queen of Satpurara ranges we zeroed on a Cab with the least quoted price and was on our way soon.

After some time the hilly roads started with zig-zag and sharp bends and the temperature became gentler on the skin gave us a feel of Pachmarhi at an altitude of 3555 feet.

Finding accommodation was not a problem as we had already booked accommodation with Hotel Glen View a MPTDC run hotel. The hotel as with many other State government run properties is situated at the most vantage point of the hill station giving a fascinating view of the bucolic landscape besides a being a building with historical antecedents.

The well furnished rooms were spacious and clean thus making us forget all the travails we faced on the journey from Itarsi. The hotel along with good food and cooperative staff also takes care of the laundry.

Pachmarhi is not very glamorous as compared to other hill stations there are no palaces, sight points or for that matter any other source of amusement but the woody expanse encapsulates and overwhelms you wherever you go. Sal, Mahu and Harrh trees dominate everything else.

The falls for which Pachmarhi are known tempts one to trek as most of them are quite some distance below the ground level. We visited Rajat Prapat, and then some distance away was Apsara Vihar. Then there are the Bee Fall and the somehow difficult Duchess fall.

A visit to Chauragarh merits a full day trip. Here on a hill top, a life size idol of Lord Shiva exists. As reaching the point requires climbing 1200 stairs so think twice before deciding on this arduous climb.

A must visit is the Priyadarshini point named after Smt. Indira Gandhi. It gives a panoramic view of Pachmarhi. Formerly known as Forsyth point after Captain James Forsyth, who discovered Pachmarhi supposedly from this point in 1857.

Other points include Bade Mahadev, Gupt Mahadev, Ambadevi Temple and off course if you are an wildlife buff a visit to the Satpura Tiger Sanctuary is a must.

Like all good things our brief sojurn in the hills of Satpura came to an end but not before some nasty haggling and ugly moments with the Taxi that brought us back to earth at Itarsi. Some thoughts for MP tourism to make the access easier for gullible travelers like us into this wonderful retreat.

Nathdwara, Gateway to the Lord

In Nathdwara it seems the clock is tuned to the activities of Shree Nath Ji everything and everyone goes by the Lord’ way no doubt the people seems a bit whimsical considering Shreeji lives here in the ‘Live Form’ of a small child who is known as the most adorable prankster.

Arriving at Nathdwara to have a quick Darshan and leave for Udaipur afterwards is not possible, you need to have a Himalayan patience. The lord is accessible but not for those in a hurry. The Darshans of Shreeji are regulated and opens up eight times day albeit in short bursts. This makes for huge serpentine queues and occasional skirmishes with those in charge of the securities.

The eight “Darshans” or “Jhankis” as they are called starts from the morning when he is waken up and ends with his going to bed early in the evening. These are termed as Mangala; Shringar; Guwal; Rajbhog; Utthapan; Bhog; Aarti; Shyan. With the exception of Shyan devotees can be a privy to the lord’s Darshan. Shyan is not always performed openly and is open to masses only on certain special occasions.

Shrinathdwara is one of the most important pilgrimages of the "Pushtmargiya Vaishnavites” whose proponent was the 15^th century scholar Vallabhacharya. A large number of pilgrims belonging to this sect and others ascend daily here from the various towns in Gujarat. No doubt Gujarat and Gujaratis have a formidable presence in this small temple town. With countless small eateries promising authentic Gujarati Thalis in various price tags, Gujarati Dharmashalas and Hotels with names written in Gujarati are prominent here.

Nathdwara is reminiscent of typical Temple towns in India where it seems very little have changed over the centuries. Constricted lanes taken away by overzealous shopkeepers selling their wares, countless sweet shops selling the favourite sweets of the lord all claiming to have been prepared with 100 % pure Milk and Desi Ghee, mishmash of overhead cables, constant stream of crowds on the road- all vying with each other for some breathing space. An ICICI ATM counter amidst the plethora of rundown shops looks some kind of a mismatch here.

If you are an enthusiastic ‘eater’ and ‘shopper’ type, who can leverage good bargains out of impossible prices, then the Chaupati Bazaar with colourful shops is the place to head for.

Navneet Priyaji or the adorable lord is everywhere in framed metallic cases, in the famed Pichhwais painting on cloth wall hangings, copper and silver vessels all make for the perfect souvenirs. After shopping, a combo of Doodh- Jalebi from Puroshottam Bhai Doodh Jalebi Wala works wonders and keeps you sustained till the main meal of a royal Gujarati or Rajasthani Thali.

Leaving Shreeji’s Haveli as the temple is known as comes with a tinge of sadness as well as with a promise- to be back again at the most opportune time.