India Travel for First timers, Tips to reduce culture shock

The Indian destination of your dreams may be dotted with palaces, the Taj Mahal, elephants and saints in yoga postures. A de-bunking of the mythical India. To many, India is the land of spices, romance, hot summers and palaces. It is a land of many peoples, languages and cultures - one that promises to pack in an entire continent into a single country. However many seasoned travelers and travel guides fail to tell you what to expect on your first visit. It is, in two short words, sensory overload. From the time you land at any of the international airports in India, nothing really prepares you for the sights, sounds and smells you will encounter here. A sea of sights. On the ride to your hotel, you will see a swirl of colors in the clothes, the three wheeled auto-rickshaws, lorries, billboards and buildings even on the dreariest days of winter. Traffic. You will realize that there is no real demarcation between the freeways and the foot paths. People will often spill on to the road while your cab maneuvers through narrow streets. Occasionally you might even have cattle, elephants, camels or stray dogs (depending on which part of the country you are in) sharing road space with your vehicle. If you look touristy you are also bound to attract the curious eyes of people around you - privacy is a luxury here. On the flip side, you will never have trouble finding help when you need it. Sound horn, ok.

Now that is a phrase you will see painted behind every heavy vehicle you will see. A popular joke about buying a vehicle in India goes thus - the first thing one should test is the horn. Without it one would be severely handicapped when one needs to get people, cattle or other cars out of the way. Musicians, hawkers, fire crackers during festivals, lottery ticket sellers and so on will compete add to the background score as you move through the country. Roadside food stalls, jasmine flowers or fumes from vehicle exhaust pipes will give you the heady mix of aromas that people associate with India. It will take a while for you to get used to all these sensory inputs, which shouldn't be thought of as a pain, rather they add to the magical Indian experience that you will treasure for years to come.
Be prepared

The only way to enjoy your Indian holiday from the start is to firmly follow this Boy Scout motto.
Here are some tips to manage the initial culture shock:

Read well before your trip - Don't just stick to travelogues and guide books. Also seek out and read articles from local media, blogs and online discussion forums that describe life in India with all its eccentricities and incentives.

Carry earplugs - They will serve you well on trips when you are jet lagging and need to drown out sounds to sleep.

Among the most bothersome people you will encounter are touts and beggars - No matter how much they talk, plead or threaten, never give in. The best favor you can do yourself and them is to ignore these pleas. Handing out money to the poor who gather around cars at signals rarely benefits them. Most often, children who beg never get to spend the money they are given. If you're still keen to help, buying them a meal would be a better idea.

Always bargain with road side vendors - Except in shops that explicitly state so and in malls, prices are rarely set in stone. Always negotiate for a better deal.

Carry a hand sanitizer and wet wipes for emergencies. Also ask for mineral water at all restaurants.

No matter how hot you’re used to having your food, ask restaurant personnel to tone down the spices in your dishes. Chances are they will any way do so if you look foreign.

When greeting people try to fold your hands and say Namaste especially with people of the opposite sex.

India is the best place to be for a budget traveler but try and take domestic flights or travel by air conditioned classes in trains to get to far flung destinations.

Be aware that IST not only stands for Indian Standard Time but also for Indian Stretchable Time.

Pushkar Camel Festival

What to Expect at the World's Largest Camel Fair.....

It's possible to buy a decent camel for around $500 in India, and there's no better place to make a selection than at the Pushkar camel festival.

Indians refer to a fair or festival as a ‘mela’. However, the words more likely to be at the forefront of a westerner’s mind are mayhem and madness. A perfect example of this is the world’s largest camel fair, held every year in Pushkar during the Hindu lunar month of Kartika (which usually falls sometime in November).



The population of Pushkar is normally a relatively tiny 15,000 people. However this explodes to over 200,000 people and 50,000 camels during the festival. At this time, the camels and their owners arrive from all directions and take up residence in makeshift tents in the neighbouring desert. They’re accompanied by the many visiting Indian families who camp out indiscriminately in the open at the edge of the town.

The Legend of Pushkar
Pushkar is an idyllic town in the middle of India's Rajasthan desert. It's full of whitewashed buildings, and is surrounded by hills on three sides and sand dunes on the other. The main feature of Pushkar is its lake. According to Hindu legend, it was made from a lotus flower dropped by Lord Brahma, the Creator, when looking for a place to perform a holy ritual on a full moon night.

Pilgrims who bathe in the lake’s waters believe they will be absolved of their sins. The four days between Kartika Shukla Ekadashi (the eleventh day of Kartika) and Kartika Purnima (the Kartika full moon) are viewed as being the most auspicious. Those who bathe on the day of the full moon are said to receive special blessings. Most of the camel action takes place over the 5 days leading up to the official start of the camel fair on Kartika Shukla Ekadashi, after which time the focus shifts to heightened religious celebrations.



Arriving in Pushkar
Arrival in Pushkar is either by taxi or heaving, dilapidated local bus from Ajmer – 11 kilometres away through the hills. Eager luggage-wallahs immediately assail disembarking tourists and quickly load their bags on to hand drawn carts, which they proceed to pull through the mazes of dusty winding streets to a motley assortment of hotels. Meanwhile, luggage owners follow behind in a daze, absorbed by the sight around them.

The streets are lined with mobile chai (tea) vendors, and hawkers selling everything from clothes and jewellery to decorative items and handicrafts. Everywhere is a dazzling display of brightly coloured turbans, scarves and sarees worn by the Indian people for the festive occasion. One can’t help but be mesmerised.

What to See at the Camel Festival
The scene of the camel fair is just as striking. The sand dunes appeared infested with camels as far as the eyes can see. These camels are dressed up, paraded, entered into beauty contests, raced, and of course traded. Some camels even have their hair shaved into patterns to help them stand out from the rest. Along with these peculiar and amusing activities, the crowds are entertained well into each evening by an array of musicians, magicians, dancers, acrobats, snake charmers and carousel rides. Anyone game enough to get close to the centre of these activities runs the risk of being suddenly pulled into the fanfare, encouraged by the frenzied clapping, singing and musical melodies of the other participants.

The Pushkar camel fair provides a fascinating insight into Indian culture and way of life, and will leave a deep imprint in your memory. It’s likely that you’ll return to you hotel room feeling quite overwhelmed but captivated by what you’ve seen and experienced. As you lay on your bed, in the distance you may be able to faintly hear chanting and the ringing of bells that accompany the ancient religious ceremonies, and you’ll know that you’re in the midst of something very special.

Accomodation on Indian Railways

Most people find themselves becoming confused during the planning phase of their journey, as they attempt to make sense of the 4 or 5 different classes of accommodation available on long distance trains in India. This includes the general seated compartment, sleeper class, 3 tier air conditioned sleeper (3AC), 2 tier air conditioned sleeper (2AC), and 1st class air conditioned sleeper (1AC). Before booking your ticket, it's recommended that you give honest thought to your travelling and privacy requirements.



Many visitors feel compelled to travel sleeper class so that they can come into close contact with their idea of the 'real India'. The majority of India's large middle class population travels in sleeper class, and you'll encounter people from all walks of life. Keep in mind though that while a day spent in sleeper class can be entertaining, longer journeys can take their toll as a result of the constant heat, noise and dirt. If you don’t like being woken at 6am, then sleeper class isn’t for you.

The air conditioned carriages are much cleaner and more restful, however they distinctly lack the spirited nature of sleeper class. Their upper class occupants can be less than stimulating, although the relatively high standard of these people’s personal habits shouldn’t be under rated on long distance journeys. Since comfort levels are higher in the air conditioned compartments, passengers find less need to interact with eachother to distract themselves from their journey. There's also less interaction with the outside world, including food vendors at stations, as windows are sealed with tinted glass and are unable to be opened.

A good option that balances comfort and cost is 3AC. Carriages are laid out in the same manner as sleeper class, with 6 berths per compartment, but you get the added benefit of air conditioning. In 2AC, you'll also get privacy curtains and more room, with only 4 berths in each compartment. 1AC offers compartments for two, with lockable doors, for a cost comparable to that of flying.

For those wanting some extra personal space, but without the extravagance of 1AC, a side berth in one of the other classes is recommended. These berths are located outside each compartment, along the aisle. However, if you're taller than around 175cm you might yourself a bit cramped, as these berths are enclosed on both ends and are shorter than the ones inside the compartments. Where possible, it’s also advisable to book an upper berth. You won't have to share it with anyone, whereas the lower berths act as seats for everyone during the day.



Travel in the general seated compartment is best avoided on long journeys. This is the only carriage on the train where reservations aren't requried. Most seats are simply wooden benches, although plastic padded benches may be found on some trains. It's in this compartment that any visions you may have of people hanging out the doors of Indian trains will become a reality, as overcrowding is taken to new levels.

There's no doubt that each type of compartment offers a certain, unique type of experience. If you choose the right level of accomodation to suit your requirements, its likely that you'll have an enchanting trip on a railway system that's so essential to Indian life.

History of Indian Railways

Indian Railways has a total state monopoly on India's rail transport. It is one of the largest and busiest rail networks in the world, transporting sixteen million passengers and more than one million tonnes of freight daily. IR is the world's largest commercial or utility employer, with more than 1.6 million employees. The railways traverse the length and breadth of the country; the routes cover a total length of 63,140 km (39,233 miles). As of 2002, IR owned a total of 216,717 wagons, 39,263 coaches and 7,739 locomotives and ran a total of 14,444 trains daily, including about 8,702 passenger trains. Railways were first introduced to India in 1853. By 1947, the year of India's independence, there were forty-two rail systems. In 1951 the systems were nationalized as one unit, becoming one of the largest networks in the world. Indian Railways operates both long distance and suburban rail systems.

A plan for a rail system in India was first put forward in 1832, but no further steps were taken for more than a decade. In 1844, the Governor-General of India Lord Hardinge allowed private entrepreneurs to set up a rail system in India. Two new railway companies were created and the East India Company was asked to assist them. Interest from investors in the UK led to the rapid creation of a rail system over the next few years. The first train in India became operational on 22 December 1851, and was used for the hauling of construction material in Roorkee. A year and a half later, on 16 April 1853, the first passenger train service was inaugurated between Bori Bunder, Bombay and Thane. Covering a distance of 34 km (21 miles), it was hauled by three locomotives, Sahib, Sindh and Sultan. This was the formal birth of railways in India.

The British government encouraged new railway companies backed by private investors under a scheme that would guarantee an annual return of five percent during the initial years of operation. Once established, the company would be transferred to the government, with the original company retaining operational control. The route mileage of this network was about 14,500 km (9,000 miles) by 1880, mostly radiating inward from the three major port cities of Bombay (Mumbai), Madras (Chennai) and Calcutta ( Kolkata). By 1895, India had started building its own locomotives, and in 1896 sent engineers and locomotives to help build the Uganda Railway.

Soon various independent kingdoms built their own rail systems and the network spread to the regions that became the modern-day states of Assam, Rajasthan and Andhra Pradesh. A Railway Board was constituted in 1901, but decision-making power was retained by the Viceroy, Lord Curzon. The Railway Board operated under aegis of the Department of Commerce and Industry and had three members: a government railway official serving as chairman, a railway manager from England and an agent of one of the company railways. For the first time in its history, the Railways began to make a tidy profit. In 1907, almost all the rail companies were taken over by the government.



The following year, the first electric locomotive appeared. With the arrival of the First World War, the railways were used to meet the needs of the British outside India. By the end of the First World War, the railways had suffered immensely and were in a poor state. The government took over the management of the Railways and removed the link between the financing of the Railways and other governmental revenues in 1920, a practice that continues to date with a separate railway budget.

The Second World War severely crippled the railways as trains were diverted to the Middle East, and the railway workshops were converted into munitions workshops. At the time of independence in 1947, a large portion of the railways went to the then newly formed Pakistan. A total of forty-two separate railway systems, including thirty-two lines owned by the former Indian princely states, were amalgamated as a single unit which was christened as the Indian Railways.

The existing rail networks were abandoned in favour of zones in 1951 and a total of six zones came into being in 1952. As the economy of India improved, almost all railway production units were indigenised. By 1985, steam locomotives were phased out in favour of diesel and electric locomotives. The entire railway reservation system was streamlined with computerisation in 1995.

source: wikipedia

Few things not to miss during India tour

It's not possible to see everything India has to offer in one trip, and we don't suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the country's highlights: outstanding buildings, natural wonders, spectacular festivals and unforgettable journeys. They're arranged in five colour-coded categories, which you can browse through to find the very best things to see and experience.

I start with oen of my favourite palce : The Manali-Leh Highway

Since it opened to foreign tourists in 1989, the famous Manali-Leh highway has replaced the old Srinagar-Kargil route as the most popular approach to Ladakh. In summer, a stream of vehicles set off from the Kullu Valley to travel along the second-highest road in the world, which reaches a dizzying altitude of 5328m. Its surface varies wildly from fairly smooth asphalt through potholes of differing depths to dirt tracks sliced by glacial streams, traversing a starkly beautiful lunar wilderness. Depending on road conditions, the 485-kilometre journey can take anything from twenty-six to thirty hours. Bus drivers cover more distance on the first day than the second, stopping for a short and chilly night in one of the overpriced tent camps along the route. These, however, are few and far between after September 15, when the highway officially closes; in practice, all this means is that the Indian government won't airlift you out if you get trapped in snow, and consequently some companies run regardless until the passes become blocked in mid to late October.

Manali to Keylong
Once out of Manali, the road begins its long ascent of the Rohtang Pass (3978m). Buses pull in for breakfast 17km before the pass at a row of makeshift dhabas at Marhi (3360m). Though not all that high by Himalayan standards, the pass itself is one of the most treacherous in the region and every year Gaddis and mountaineers are caught unawares by sudden weather changes - hence Rohtang's name, which literally means "piles of dead bodies". The road descends from Rohtang to the floor of the Chandra Valley, finally reaching the river at Koksar, little more than a scruffy collection of chai stalls with a checkpoint where you have to enter passport details in a ledger - one of many such stops on the road to Leh. The next few hours are among the most memorable on the entire trip. Bus seats on the left are best, as the road runs across the northern slopes of the valley through the first Buddhist settlements, hemmed in by towering peaks and hanging glaciers towards Keylong.


Keylong to Sarchu Serai
Beyond Keylong, the Bhaga Valley broadens, but its bare sides support very few villages. By the time you reach Darcha, a lonely cluster of dry-stone huts and dingy tent camps, the landscape is utterly denuded. All buses stop here for passengers to grab a hot bowl of Tibetan thukpa from a wayside dhaba. There's little else to do in Darcha, though the Shingo La trailhead - the main trekking route north to Zanskar - is on the outskirts. If you are not on one of the through Manali-Leh buses, you're better off stopping at JISPA 7km south, a pleasant little hamlet with ample camping along the river as well as the upmarket Hotel Jispa (Telephone01900/233203; Rs1000-1500), whose breakfasts are legendary among passing cycle tourists; they also have dorm beds for Rs200. One kilometre before the Jispa, the Mountaineering Institute arranges mountaineering and rescue courses in summer through tour agencies in Manali, and may also provide accommodation.From Darcha, the road climbs steadily northeast to the Baralacha La pass. On the other side, buses stop for the night at SARCHU SERAI, where HPTDC's Tent Camp (Rs300-500), a rather ordinary affair, serves steaming plates of rice, dhal and veg, as do a handful of similarly priced dhabas nearby. There are several more expensive camps dotted along the road charging up to Rs800 per person including food. Note that Sarchu Serai is 2500m higher than Manali, and travellers coming straight from Manali might suffer from the higher altitude here.


Sarchu Serai to Taglang La
Sarchu Serai packs up for the season from September 15. Northbound buses thereafter press on over Lachuglang La (5019m), the second highest pass on the highway, to the tent camp at PANG (4500m), which stays open longer. Unfortunately, this means that the drive through one of the most dramatic stretches of the route, through an incredible canyon, is in darkness. North of Pang, the road heads up to the fourth and final pass, the Taglang La, a dizzying 5360m, the highest point on the Manali-Leh highway. Drivers pull in for a quick spin of the prayer wheels and a brief photo session alongside the sign exclaiming "Unbelievable! Is not it?". Staring north beyond the multicoloured tangle of prayer flags across Ladakh to the Karakoram Range, just visible on the horizon, you may well agree.

Taglang La to Leh
From Taglang La, 40km of switchbacks deliver you from the windswept pass through a purple-hued gorge to the neat, kidney-shaped barley fields and the white chortens of Ladakhi villages. At Upshi, the road reaches the dramatic Indus Valley, tracing the Indus River past slender poplars, sprawling army camps and ancient monasteries. Traffic builds as you approach Choglamsar, then climb the final dusty kilometres to Leh - past the world's highest golf course - through the modern outskirts to the haberdashers, canny traders and wrinkled apricot-sellers of Leh's Main Bazaar.

India " The cradle of life "

From my past experiences I came to know that India is the most visited destination in the world. And in my blog I get lots of visitors from out of India. So at last I decided to write for fellow travellers outside India.

"India is the cradle of the human race, the birthplace of human speech, the mother of history, the grandmother of legend, and the great grand mother of tradition. Our most valuable and most astrictive materials in the history of man are treasured up in India only!"
Mark Twain

"Civilizations have arisen in other parts of the world. In ancient and modern times, wonderful ideas have been carried forward from one race to another...But mark you, my friends, it has been always with the blast of war trumpets and the march of embattled cohorts. Each idea had to be soaked in a deluge of blood..... Each word of power had to be followed by the groans of millions, by the wails of orphans, by the tears of widows. This, many other nations have taught; but India for thousands of years peacefully existed. Here activity prevailed when even Greece did not exist... Even earlier, when history has no record, and tradition dares not peer into the gloom of that intense past, even from until now, ideas after ideas have marched out from her, but every word has been spoken with a blessing behind it and peace before it. We, of all nations of the world, have never been a conquering race, and that blessing is on our head, and therefore we live....!"
Swami Vivekananda

"Unity in Diversity" was the slogan chosen when India celebrated fifty years of Independence in 1997, a declaration replete with as much optimism as pride. Stretching from the frozen barrier of the Himalayas to the tropical greenery of Kerala, and from the sacred Ganges to the sands of the Thar desert, the country's boundaries encompass incomparable variety. Walk the streets of any Indian city and you'll rub shoulders with representatives of several of the world's great faiths, a multitude of castes and outcastes, fair-skinned, turbanned Punjabis and dark-skinned Tamils. You'll also encounter temple rituals that have been performed since the time of the Egyptian Pharaohs, onion-domed mosques erected centuries before the Taj Mahal was ever dreamt of, and quirky echoes of the British Raj on virtually every corner. That so much of India's past remains discernible today is all the more astonishing given the pace of change since Independence in 1947. Spurred by the free-market reforms of the early 1990s, the economic revolution started by Rajiv Gandhi has transformed the country with new consumer goods, technologies and ways of life. Today the land where the Buddha lived and taught, and whose religious festivals are as old as the rivers that sustain them, is the second-largest producer of computer software in the world, with its own satellites and nuclear weapons.

However, the presence in even the most far-flung market towns of Internet cafés and Japanese hatchbacks has thrown into sharp relief the problems that have bedevilled the subcontinent since long before it became the world's largest secular democracy. Poverty remains a harsh fact of life for around forty percent of India's inhabitants; no other nation on earth has slum settlements on the scale of those in Delhi, Mumbai and Kolkata (Calcutta), nor so many malnourished children, uneducated women and homes without access to clean water and waste disposal.

Fact file The Republic of India, whose capital is New Delhi, borders China, Nepal and Bhutan to the north, Bangladesh and Myanmar (formerly Burma) to the east and Pakistan to the west. The world's seventh-largest country, covering more than 3 million square kilometres, it is second only to China in terms of population, which stands at over 1.1 billion. Hindus comprise 82 percent of the population, Muslims 12 percent, and there are millions of Christians, Sikhs, Buddhists and Jains. Eighteen major languages and more than 1000 minor languages and dialects are spoken; Hindi is the language of forty percent of the population, but English is widely spoken. The caste system is all-pervasive and, although integral to Hindu belief, it also encompasses non-Hindus. A system of social hierarchy that holds especial sway in rural areas, it may dictate where a person lives and what their occupation is. Literacy extends to 76 percent of males and 54 percent of females: 65 percent of the total population.

Where to go
The best Indian itineraries are the simplest. It just isn't possible to see everything in a single expedition, even if you spent a year trying. Far better, then, to concentrate on one or two specific regions and, above all, to be flexible. Although it requires a deliberate change of pace to venture away from the urban centres, rural India has its own very distinct pleasures. In fact, while Indian cities are undoubtedly adrenalin-fuelled, upbeat places, it is possible - and certainly less stressful - to travel for months around the subcontinent and rarely have to set foot in one. The most-travelled circuit in the country, combining spectacular monuments with the flat, fertile landscape that for many people is archetypally Indian, is the so-called "Golden Triangle" in the north: Delhi itself, the colonial capital; Agra, home of the Taj Mahal; and the Pink City of Jaipur in Rajasthan. Rajasthan is probably the single most popular state with travellers, who are drawn by its desert scenery, by the imposing medieval forts and palaces of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Bundi, and by the colourful traditional dress.

East of Delhi, the River Ganges meanders through some of India's most densely populated regions to reach the extraordinary holy Hindu city of Varanasi (also known as Benares), where to witness the daily rituals of life and death focused around the waterfront ghats (bathing places) is to glimpse the continuing practice of India's most ancient religious traditions. Further east still is the great city of Kolkata (Calcutta), the capital until early last century of the British Raj and now a teeming metropolis that epitomizes contemporary India's most pressing problems. The majority of travellers follow the well-trodden Ganges route to reach Nepal, perhaps unaware that the Indian Himalayas offer superlative trekking and mountain scenery to rival any in the range. With Kashmir effectively off the tourist map since the escalation of its civil war, Himachal Pradesh - where Dharamsala is the home of a Tibetan community that includes the Dalai Lama himself - and the remote province of Ladakh, with its mysterious lunar landscape and cloud-swept monasteries, have become the major targets for journeys into the mountains. Less visited, but possessing some of Asia's highest peaks, is the niche of Uttaranchal bordering Nepal, where the glacial source of the sacred River Ganges has attracted pilgrims for over a thousand years. At the opposite end of the chain, Sikkim, north of Bengal, is another low-key trekking destination, harbouring scenery and a Buddhist culture similar to that of neighbouring Bhutan. The Northeast Hill States, connected to eastern India by a slender neck of land, boast remarkably diverse landscapes and an incredible fifty percent of India's biodiversity.

For all its jarring juxtapositions, India remains an utterly compelling destination

Heading south from Kolkata (Calcutta) along the coast, your first likely stop is Konarak in Orissa, site of the famous Sun Temple, a giant carved pyramid of stone that lay submerged under sand until its rediscovery at the start of the twentieth century. Although it bore the brunt of the 2004 Asian tsunamis, Tamil Nadu, further south, has retained its own tradition of magnificent architecture, with towering gopura gateways dominating towns whose vast temple complexes are still the focus of everyday life. Of them all, Madurai, in the far south, is the most stunning, but you could spend months wandering between the sacred sites of the Cauvery Delta and the fragrant Nilgiri Hills, draped in the tea terraces that have become the hallmark of South Indian landscapes. Kerala, near the southernmost tip of the subcontinent on the western coast, is India at its most tropical and relaxed, its lush backwaters teeming with simple wooden craft of all shapes and sizes, and red-roofed towns and villages all but invisible beneath a canopy of palm trees. Further up the coast is Goa, the former Portuguese colony whose hundred-kilometre coastline is fringed with beaches to suit all tastes and budgets, from upmarket package tourists to long-staying backpackers, and whose towns hold whitewashed Christian churches that might have been transplanted from Europe.

India's sacred geography

It's hard to think of a more visibly religious country than India. The very landscape of the subcontinent - its rivers, waterfalls, trees, hilltops, mountains and rocks - comprises a vast sacred geography for adherents of the dozen or more faiths rooted here. Connecting the country's countless holy places is a network of pilgrimage routes along which tens of thousands of worshippers may be moving at any one time - on regular trains, specially decorated buses, tinsel-covered bicycles, barefoot, alone or in noisy family groups. For the visitor, joining devotees in the teeming temple precincts of the south, on the ghats at Varanasi, at the Sufi shrines of Ajmer and Delhi, before the naked Jain colossi of Sravanabelagola, or at any one of the innumerable religious festivals that punctuate the astrological calendar is to experience India at its most intense.

Indian railways

India's railways, which daily transport millions of commuters, pilgrims, animals and hessian-wrapped packages between the four corners of the subcontinent, are often cited as the best thing the British Raj bequeathed to its former colony. And yet, with its hierarchical legion of clerks, cooks, coolis, bearers, ticket inspectors, stations managers and ministers, the network has become a quintessentially Indian institution. Travelling across India by rail - whether you rough it in dirt-cheap second-class, or pamper yourself with starched cotton sheets and hot meals in an air-con carriage - is likely to yield some of the most memorable moments of your trip. Open around the clock, the stations in themselves are often great places to watch the world go by, with hundreds of people from all walks of life eating, sleeping, buying and selling, regardless of the hour. This is also where you'll grow familiar with one of the unforgettable sounds of the subcontinent: the robotic drone of the chai-wallah, dispensing two-cups of hot, sweet tea.

North of here sits Mumbai, an ungainly beast that has been the major focus of the nationwide drift to the big cities. Centre of the country's formidable popular movie industry, it reels along on an undeniable energy that, after a few days of acclimatization, can prove addictive. Beyond Mumbai is the state of Gujarat, renowned for the unique culture and crafts of the barren Kutch region.

Some of India's most memorable monuments lie far inland, on long-forgotten trading routes across the heart of the peninsula - the abandoned city of Vijayanagar (or Hampi) in Karnataka, whose ruins are scattered across a primeval boulder-strewn landscape; the painted and sculpted Buddhist caves of Ajanta and Ellora in Maharashtra; the erotic temples of Khajuraho and palaces of Orchha in Madhya Pradesh. On a long trip, it makes sense to pause and rest every few weeks. Certain places have fulfilled that function for generations, such as the Himalayan resort of Manali, epicentre of India's hashish-producing area, and the many former colonial hill stations that dot the country, from Ootacamund (Ooty), in the far south, to that archetypal British retreat, Shimla, immortalized in the writing of Rudyard Kipling. Elsewhere, the combination of sand and the sea, and a picturesque rural or religious backdrop - such as at Varkala in Kerala, Gokarna in Karnataka, and the remoter beaches of Goa - are usually enough to loosen even the tightest itineraries.


When to go
India's weather is extremely varied, something you must take into account when planning your trip. The most influential feature of the subcontinent's climate is the wet season, or monsoon. This breaks on the Keralan coast at the end of May, working its way northeast across the country over the following month and a half. While it lasts, regular and prolonged downpours are interspersed with bursts of hot sunshine, and the pervasive humidity can be intense. At the height of the monsoon - especially in the jungle regions of the northwest and the low-lying delta lands of Bengal - flooding can severely disrupt communications, causing widespread destruction. In the Himalayan foothills, landslides are common, and entire valley systems can be cut off for weeks. By September, the monsoon has largely receded from the north, but it takes another couple of months before the clouds disappear altogether from the far south. The east coast of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu, and the south of Kerala, get a second drenching between October and December, when the "northwest" or "retreating" monsoon sweeps in from the Bay of Bengal. By December, however, most of the subcontinent enjoys clear skies and relatively cool temperatures.

Kashmir

Few civil wars on earth can have been fought against a more idyllic backdrop than the current troubles in Kashmir. During the run-up to Partition in 1947, when the local Hindu maharaja threw the lot of this Muslim-majority valley in with India instead of neighbouring Pakistan, he sowed the seeds of a conflict that would erupt into a full-scale uprising forty years later, between various factions of Islamic, Pakistani-backed militants and the Indian state. Since 1989, between 40,000 and 60,000 Kashmiri separatists, Indian troops and civilians have died in a campaign of appalling violence that has, on several occasions, brought south Asia's two nuclear powers to the brink of all-out war. Although technically open to visitors, the Kashmir Valley, for all its undeniable beauty, remains a war zone we strongly recommend you steer clear of - hence the absence of a chapter on the region in this book.

Mid-winter sees the most marked contrasts between the climates of north and south India. While Delhi, for example, may be ravaged by chill winds blowing off the snowfields of the Himalayas, the Tamil plains and coastal Kerala, more than 1000km south, still stew under fierce post-monsoon sunshine. As spring gathers pace, the centre of the subcontinent starts to heat up again, and by late March thermometers nudge 33°C across most of the Gangetic Plains and Deccan plateau. Temperatures peak in May and early June, when anyone who can retreats to the hill stations. Above the baking subcontinental land mass, hot air builds up and sucks in humidity from the southwest, causing the onset of the monsoon in late June, and bringing relief to millions of overheated Indians. The best time to visit most of the country, therefore, is during the cool, dry season, between November and March. Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh, are ideal at this time, and temperatures in Goa and central India remain comfortable. The heat of the south is never less than intense but it becomes stifling in May and June, so aim to be in Tamil Nadu and Kerala between January and March. From this time onwards, the Himalayas grow more accessible, and the trekking season reaches its peak in August and September while the rest of the subcontinent is being soaked by the rains.

Average temperatures and rainfall

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Ahmedabad (Guj) Av daily max (C°) 29 31 36 40 41 38 33 32 33 36 33 30 Rainfall (mm) 4 0 1 2 5 100 316 213 163 13 5 1 Bangalore (Kar) Av daily max (C°) 28 31 33 34 33 30 28 29 28 28 27 27 Rainfall (mm) 4 14 6 37 119 65 93 95 129 195 46 16 Chennai (TN) Av daily max (C°) 29 31 33 35 38 37 35 35 34 32 29 28 Rainfall (mm) 24 7 15 25 52 53 83 124 118 267 309 139 Darjeeling (WB) Av daily max (C°) 9 11 15 18 19 19 20 20 20 19 15 12 Rainfall (mm) 22 27 52 109 187 522 713 573 419 116 14 5 Delhi Av daily max (C°) 21 24 30 36 41 40 35 34 34 35 29 23 Rainfall (mm) 25 22 17 7 8 65 211 173 150 31 1 5 Hyderabad (AP) Av daily max (C°) 29 31 35 37 39 34 30 29 30 30 29 28 Rainfall (mm) 2 11 13 24 30 107 165 147 163 71 25 5 Jaisalmer (Raj) Av daily max (C°) 24 28 33 38 42 41 38 36 36 36 31 26 Rainfall (mm) 2 1 3 1 5 7 89 86 14 1 5 2 Kochi (Ker) Av daily max (C°) 31 31 31 31 31 29 28 28 28 29 30 30 Rainfall (mm) 9 34 50 139 364 756 572 386 235 333 184 37 Kolkata (Calcutta) (WB) Av daily max (C°) 26 29 34 36 36 34 32 32 32 31 29 27 Rainfall (mm) 13 22 30 50 135 263 320 318 253 134 29 4 Mumbai (M) Av daily max (C°) 31 32 33 33 33 32 30 29 30 32 33 32 Rainfall (mm) 0 1 0 0 20 647 945 660 309 17 7 1 Panjim (Goa) Av daily max (C) 31 32 32 33 33 31 29 29 29 31 33 33 Rainfall (mm) 2 0 4 17 18 580 892 341 277 122 20 37 Puri (Ori) Av daily max (C°) 27 28 30 31 32 31 31 31 31 31 29 27 Rainfall (mm) 9 20 14 12 63 187 296 256 258 242 75 8 Shimla (HP) Av daily max (C°) 9 10 14 19 23 24 21 20 20 18 15 11 Rainfall (mm) 65 48 58 38 54 147 415 385 195 45 7 24 Varanasi (UP) Av daily max (C°) 23 27 33 39 41 39 33 32 32 32 29 25 Rainfall (mm) 23 8 14 1 8 102 346 240 261 38 15 2

Many first-time visitors find themselves unable to see past such glaring disparities. Others come expecting a timeless ascetic wonderland and are surprised to encounter one of the most materialistic societies on the planet. Still more find themselves intimidated by what may seem, initially, an incomprehensible and bewildering continent. But for all its jarring juxtapositions, intractable paradoxes and frustrations, India remains an utterly compelling destination. Intricate and worn, its distinctive patina - the stream of life in its crowded bazaars, the ubiquitous filmi music, the pungent melange of beedi smoke, cooking spices, dust and cow dung - casts a spell that few forget from the moment they step off a plane. Love it or hate it - and most travellers oscillate between the two - India will shift the way you see the world.

If you are planning to visit India, You can visit the India Accommodation Guide.