Wednesday 21 February, 2007

Music of India, It Rocks !

Music, music and music, it's really the lifeline of every Indian. People in India cannot imagine a single day without music. Be it the morning bhajans in the temples, the FM on the car stereo, the mobile ringtones, the pubs, the weedings, etc. Music lives in the veins of every indian. It was in my mind to write something about the music in India. Here's the day. Music in India has many sections and many forms. The origin of north Indian (Hindustani) classical music is shrouded in obscurity. There is a tendency in India to attribute the invention of any ancient art form to one of the many Hindu deities, and the resulting synthesis of myth and legend is often taken as literal truth. But in reality north Indian classical music as it exists today is the result of a long process of integrating many diverse cultural influences. Not only is there a rich and varied tradition of regional folk music, but all through its history, India has absorbed the culture and traditions of foreign invaders, the most influential being the Muslim Moghuls. The introduction of Turko-Persian musical elements is what primarily distinguishes north Indian classical music from its predecessor, Carnatic, now restricted to southern India. The latter is a complex, rich and fascinating musical tradition in its own right, and even an untrained ear can usually distinguish between the two.

Teachers and pupils
In the north, both Hindu and Muslim communities have provided outstanding artists. While music recognizes no religious differences - indeed it is something of a religion in its own right - distinguished musicians of Hindu origin customarily take the title of pandit (and become known as gurus), while their Muslim counterparts add the prefix ustad (meaning "master") to their names. An ustad may teach anything - not only his own particular art or instrument. It is not unusual for sitar maestros to teach sarod or vocal techniques to their pupils. The teaching of north Indian classical music is a subject in itself. One thing that strikes a Westerner is the spiritual link between teacher and pupil. Quite often the two may be blood relations anyway, but where they are not, a spiritual relationship is officially inaugurated in a ceremony in which the teacher ties a string to the wrist of the pupil to symbolize the bond between them.

Apart from actual musical form and content, north Indian music has various extra-musical traditions and rituals, usually taught through musical families or gharanas. Traditionally, Indian music is taught on a one-to-one basis, often from father to son. Many academies and colleges of music now follow the modern style, but traditionalists still adhere to the gharana system, and great importance is still attached to membership of a musical family or an impressive lineage. A gharana, which may be for singing, for any or all kinds of instruments, or for dance, is more a school of thought than an institution. It suggests a particular belief, or a preference for a certain performance style. Gharanas differ not only in broad terms, but also in minute details: how to execute a particular combination of notes, or simply the correct way to hold an instrument. They are usually founded by musicians of outstanding ability, and new styles and forms are added by exceptionally talented musicians who may have trained with one particular gharana and then evolved a style of their own.

Scales of purity and imagination
Singing is considered to be the highest form of classical music, after which instruments are graded according to their similarity to the human voice. The two main vocal traditions are dhrupad, the purest of all, devoid of all embellishment and entirely austere in its delivery, and khayal, which has a more romantic content and elaborate ornamentation and is the more popular today. Less abstract vocal forms include the so-called light classical dadra, thumri and ghazal as well as qawwali, the religious music of the Sufi tradition. The degree of musical purity is assigned according to a scale which has music at one extreme and words at the other. As words become more audible and thus the meaning of lyrics more important, so the form is considered to be musically less pure. Indian musicologists talk about two kinds of sound - one spiritual and inaudible to the human ear, the other physical and audible. The inaudible sound is said to be produced from the ether, and its function is to liberate the soul. But to feel it requires great devotion and concentration which the average person can never really attain. Audible sound, on the other hand, is actually "struck" and is said to have an immediate and pleasurable impact.

Indian music always has a constant drone in the background, serving as a reference point for performer and listener alike. In north Indian music this drone is usually played on the four-stringed tambura. The privilege of accompanying a teacher's performance on the tanpura is often accorded to advanced students.

Indian music does not so much describe a mood (as some European music does) as help to create that mood, and then explore it to its depths. Where Western classical music starts at a particular point and then progresses from it, Indian classical music revolves around the point, probing it from every angle, yet maintaining a dignified restraint. It's this restraint that distinguishes Indian classical music from the carefree abandon of Indian pop and film music.

Raags and rhythms
The mainstay of all north Indian classical music is the raag (or raga), an immensely intricate system of scales and associated melodic patterns. Each of the 200 main raags is defined by its unique combination of scale-pattern, dominant notes, specific rules to be obeyed in ascending or descending and associated melodic phrases. While Indian classical music is renowned for improvisation, this only takes place within the strictly defined boundaries of a particular raag. If the improviser wanders away from the main musical form of the raag, his or her performance ceases to be regarded as "classical" music. The mark of a good performer is the ability to improvise extensively without abandoning the set of defining rules.

Some raags are linked with particular seasons; there is a raag for rain, and one for spring; raags can be "masculine" or "feminine"; and musicologists may categorize them according to whether they are best suited to a male or female voice. Each raag is allotted a time of day, a time identified with the spiritual and emotional qualities of the raag. Raags are specifically allocated to early morning (either before or after sunrise), mid-morning, early afternoon, late afternoon, early evening (either before or after sunset), late evening, late night and post-midnight. This system causes a few problems in northern latitudes, for there is some argument as to whether a raag should be heard by clock-time or sun-time. Purists adhere to the archaic tradition of a "raag timetable" even if they're only listening to CDs. The performance of a raag, whether sung or played on a sitar, sarod or sarangi, follows a set pattern. First comes the alaap, a slow, meditative "mood-setter" in free rhythm which explores the chosen raag, carefully introducing the notes of the scale one by one. The alaap can span several hours in the hands of a distinguished performer, but may only last a matter of minutes; older aficionados allege that most present-day listeners cannot sustain the attention required to appreciate a lengthy and closely argued alaap. As a result, performers have felt under pressure to abbreviate this section of the raag, to reach the faster middle and end sections as soon as possible. This became customary in the recording studio, although the advent of the CD, which does not force the music to fit into 25 minutes as the LP did, has initiated a move back to longer performances.

In the next two sections, the jorh and the jhala, the instrumentalist introduces a rhythmic element, developing the raag and exploring its more complex variations. Only in these and the final section, the gath, does the percussion instrument - usually the tabla or pakhavaj - enter. The soloist introduces a short, fixed composition to which he or she returns between flights of improvisation. In this section rhythm is an important structural element. Both percussionist and soloist improvise, at times echoing each other and sometimes pursuing individual variations of rhythmic counterpoint, regularly punctuated by unison statements of a short melody known as "the composition". The gath itself is subdivided into three sections: a slow tempo passage known as vilambit, increasing to a medium tempo, called madhya, and finally the fast tempo, drut. Just as the raag organizes melody, so the rhythm is organized by highly sophisticated structures expressed through cycles known as taals, which can be clapped out by hand. A taal is made up of a number of beats (matras), each beat defined by a combination of rhythm pattern and timbre. It is the unique set of patterns (bols) available within a particular taal that defines it. There are literally hundreds of taals, but most percussionists use the same few favourites over and over again, the most common being the sixteen-beat teentaal.

The most unfamiliar aspect of taal to the Western ear is that the end of one cycle comes not on its last beat, but on the first beat of the following one, so that there is a continual overlap. This first beat is known as sum, a point of culmination which completes a rhythmic structure, and performers often indicate it by nodding to each other when they arrive at it. Audiences do the same to express satisfaction and appreciation.

Among smaller, more discerning audiences, verbal applause such as "Wah!" (Bravo!), or even "Subhan-Allah" (Praise be to God!), is considered the standard form of appreciation. Only in Western-style concert halls, where such exclamations would be inaudible, has hand-clapping come to replace these traditional gestures of approval.

Light classical music
Many concerts of classical music end with the performance of a piece in one of the styles collectively referred to as "light classical". Although they obey the rules of classical music with respect to raag and taal, they do so less rigorously than is required for a performance of dhrupad, khayal or other pure classical styles. The alaap is short or nonexistent, and the composition is frequently derived from a folk melody. Indeed, it could be said that light classical music is essentially a synthesis of folk and classical practice. The two most important and widespread types are thumri and ghazal.

Sound of the south
Southern India's Carnatic classical music is essentially similar to Hindustani classical music in outlook and theoretical background but differs in many details, usually ascribed to the far greater Islamic influence in the north. To the Western ear, Carnatic music is emotionally direct and impassioned, without the sometimes sombre restraint that characterizes much of the north's music. For instance the alaapaana section, although it introduces and develops the notes of the raag in much the same way as the alaap of north Indian music, interrupts its stately progress with sparkling decorative flourishes. Often, too, the alaapaana is succeeded by a set of increasingly complex elaborations of a basic melody in a way that is more easily grasped than the abstract, sometimes severe improvisations of the Hindustani masters. Compositions, both of "themes" and the set variations upon them, play a much greater role in Carnatic musical practice than in Hindustani. The raags of Carnatic music, like those of Hindustani music, are theoretically numbered in the thousands and musicians are expected to be familiar with them all. In practice, however, there are only two hundred main raags ever played, and probably only fifty or sixty in common use.

Song is at the root of South Indian music, and forms based on song are paramount, even when the performance is purely instrumental. The vast majority of the texts are religious, and the temple is frequently the venue for performance. The most important form is the kriti, a devotional song, hundreds of which were written by the most influential figure in the development of Carnatic music, the singer Thyagaraja (1767-1847). He was central to the music, not only for his compositions but also for the development of techniques of rhythmic and melodic variations. Southern India's biggest music festival, held annually near Thanjavur on the banks of the River Kaveri, is named after him.

Although the vocal tradition is central to this music, its singers are perhaps less well known in the West than instrumentalists. M.S. Subbulakshmi and Dr M. Balamurali Krishna are among the famous names, but the most celebrated is probably Ramnad Krishnan, who has taught in America.

The instruments of Carnatic music include the vina, which resembles the sitar but has no sympathetic strings (Carnatic musicians appear not to like the somewhat hollow timbre that they give to the instrument), the mridangam double-headed drum, and the enormous nadasvaram, a type of oboe just over a metre long which takes great experience and delicacy to play. The violin is widely used - listen to the playing of Dr L. Subramaniam or his brother L. Shankar, better known for his fusion experiments with guitarist John McLaughlin than for his classical recordings. The mandolin is growing in popularity and the saxophone has made a strikingly successful appearance in the hands of Kadri Gopalnath. Among vina players look out for S. Balachander and K.S. Narayanaswami.

Percussion is very important, perhaps more so than in Hindustani music, and percussion ensembles frequently tour abroad. In addition to the mridangam, percussion instruments include the ghatam, a clay pot played with tremendous zest and sometimes tossed into the air in a burst of high spirits. "Vikku" Vinayakram is its best-known player.

New paths
In earlier times the job of musician was more or less hereditary: would-be musicians began their musical education at the age of four, and music (as a profession) was considered beneath the dignity of the well-to-do and the academic classes. However, in recent years traditional restrictions have been relaxed, and music is no longer the province of a few families. Many educated Indians are becoming involved in both performance and composition, and as public performance loses its stigma the requirement for musicians to begin their training at a very early age becomes less forceful. Women instrumentalists are also making their mark - a startling innovation in a male-dominated musical culture. Two women with particularly high reputations are violinist Sangeeta Rajan and tabla player Anuradha Pal, both of whom have recorded in India. Several gharanas have been set up abroad, notably the one in California run by sarod player Ali Akbar Khan, who is probably Indian music's most influential living figure, and there is a steady trickle of Westerners who are willing to subject themselves to the disciplines of study.

However, the importance of the old families is barely diminished. Among the younger generation of players are such names as sarod player Brij Narayan, son of Ram Narayan; Nikil Banerjee, who studied sitar with his father Jitendra Nath Banerjee; and Krishna Bhatt, who studied with Ravi Shankar and also comes from a family of musicians. Ravi Shankar's own daughter, Anoushka, also created a stir when she made her debut in 2001 at the age of 19, although her film-star looks were greeted with greater critical acclaim than her playing. Other important figures to listen out for are sitar player Rais Khan and vocalist Rashid Khan. These, like the other names mentioned, bear witness to the remaining vitality and richness of the classical music tradition in India and abroad.

Folk music of India
There are many kinds of Indian folk music, but the main regional strands are those of Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, the Punjab (spread across both India and Pakistan), and Bengal (including Bangladesh). Kashmir produces its own distinctive folk sound, and the music of many of India's tribal peoples more closely resembles that of southeast Asia or even Borneo than anything else in the subcontinent. Apart from obvious linguistic differences, the folk songs of each region have their own distinct rhythmic structures and are performed on or accompanied by different musical instruments. Some classical instruments are used, but the following are mostly associated with less formal folk occasions.

In Rajasthan, music is always played for weddings and theatre performances, and often at local markets or gatherings. There is a whole caste of professional musicians who perform this function, and a wonderful assortment of earthy-sounding stringed instruments like the kamayacha and ravanhata that accompany their songs. The ravanhata is a simple, two-stringed fiddle that, skilfully played, can produce a tune of great beauty and depth. Hearing it played by a fine street musician behind the city walls of Jaisalmer, it seems the perfect aural background for this desert citadel.

The satara is the traditional instrument of the desert shepherds. A double flute, it has two pipes of different lengths, one to play the melody, the other to provide the drone, rather like bagpipes without the bag. The bag is the musician himself, who plays with circular breathing. Local cassettes of these instruments are available in small stores across Rajasthan. As well as drums, India boasts a variety of tuned percussion instruments. The most popular in this category is the jaltarang - a water-xylophone - consisting of a series of porcelain bowls of different sizes, each containing a prescribed amount of water. The bowls are usually struck with a pair of small sticks, but sometimes these are abandoned as the player rubs the rims of the bowls with a wet finger. The small brass, dome-shaped cymbals called manjira or taal are the best known of the many kinds of bells and gongs.

Filmi and Bhangra
There are songs for all kinds of work and play in India, and almost every activity is represented in song, and there is an extensive repertoire of dance music. Inevitably, film music has drawn heavily from this folk tradition, but sadly has also become a relatively effortless substitute for most of it. In some instances, "pop" adaptations of traditional folk music have served to revitalize and add a fresh lease of life to the original form - bhangra, the folk music of Punjab, is a very good example of this. British "bhangra-rock" has created a fresh interest in the original bhangra of the Punjabi farmers.

Folk music is now beginning to awaken greater interest, particularly with non-Indian record companies, and largely as a result of the growing Western interest in different kinds of Indian music. Perhaps this overseas interest has come just in time, for although it is still practised in the old way in more traditional settings and for particular rituals - weddings, births, harvest time and so on - folk music on the whole, if it is to be defined as the "music of the people", has largely been eclipsed by the output of the Indian film industry. Whereas in the past traditional wedding songs would have been sung by the neighbourhood women all through the festivities, it is now more usual to hear film songs blaring away at Indian weddings. Nonetheless, fears that traditional music is vanishing altogether seem unwarranted: in Pakistan the unique sound of the sohni bands - clarinet-led brass bands which play at weddings - fills the air with wild melody, and in Rajasthan, members of the traditional musicians' castes still make their living by playing at ceremonies and for entertainment. The radio and cassette player are by no means all-conquering.

Marching bands
Spend any time in northern India, particularly during the winter wedding season, and you're almost certain to come across at least a couple of marching bands. First introduced to India by the British Army in the early nineteenth century and later adopted as a folk idiom right across the north and centre of the country (where they replaced the old shehnai-and-drum naubat troupes of the Moghul era), brass bands have become an essential ingredient of working-class weddings and religious processions. Decked out in ill-fitting, mock-military uniforms (complete with tinsel epaulettes, plastic-peaked caps and buckled gaiters), the musicians (band-wallahs) are most often called upon to accompany a bridegroom's party (baraat) in its procession to the bride's house. The music itself - a cacophony of squealing clarinets and crowd-stopping blasts of brass played over snare and dholak tattoos - is invariably at odds with the mood of the groom, sitting astride a hired white horse on his way to married life with a stranger. But no one seems to care, least of all the members of the baraat, hip-thrusting and strutting along like Bollywood's best, to the stream of Hindi film hits, folk tunes, popular raags and patriotic songs.

Monday 19 February, 2007

Sunderbans Tiger Reserve / National Park

The holy Ganga journeys down the Himalayas and flows along India’s vast monotonous plains into the state of West Bengal. Towards the southern tip of the state, the land and the Bay of Bengal break out into a lively welcoming fandango to form a fresco of tangled mangrove swamps – the Sunderbans. The Sunderbans are spread out over an area of 16,500sq km in the prostrate delta towards the mouth of the Ganga, and form the world’s largest estuarine forests that constitute 80% of India’s total mangrove swamps. A World Heritage Site, the Sunderbans are also amongst the richest biosphere reserves in the subcontinent. The silt deposit islands on the Sunderbans Delta are connected to the mainland through a labyrinthine waterway system, with some islands being practically impenetrable. This has turned out to be a boon in disguise because the ecology of the area and these fecund marshlands, wired in thick foliage, are able to support an astonishing variety of plant and animal life. Twenty-six of the fifty broad mangrove types found in the world, thrive in the Sunderbans. In order to preserve this clearly unique biosphere, the area between River Hooghly and the River Teulia was declared a National Park in the year 1984. The protected reserve covers a stretch of 1,330sq km, and also constitutes the core zone of the National Park.

The cluster of mangrove-covered islands known as the Sunderbans, or "beautiful forest", lie in the Ganges Delta, stretching east from the mouth of the Hooghly to Bangladesh. They are home to the legendary Royal Bengal tiger, a ferocious man-eater which has adapted remarkably well to this watery environment, swimming from island to island and covering distances of as much as 40km in one day. Other wildlife include wild boar, spotted deer, Olive Ridley sea turtles, sharks, dolphins and large estuarine crocodiles. Among the half-million or so people who find themselves sharing this delicate ecosystem with the mighty cats are honey collectors, woodcutters and fisherfolk. All, regardless of their official religion, worship Banbibi, the goddess of the forest, and her Muslim consort Dakshin Rai, supreme ruler of the Sunderbans; their occupations are so hazardous that wives take off all their marriage ornaments when their husbands go out to hunt, fish or farm, becoming widows until they return. As the tigers like to creep up from behind, the honey collectors and woodcutters wear masks at the back of their heads. Meanwhile, the women and children drag nets along the estuary shores to catch prawns - no less hazardous, considering they have to deal with crocodiles and sharks as well as tigers.

This littoral forest is the only ecological habitat of the tiger of its kind not only in India but also in the world except in Bangladesh. The typical littoral forests of Sundarbans comprises of a host of trees species adopted to the peculiar estuarine condition of high salinity, lack of soil erosion and daily inundation by high tides. The tidal forms and the mangrove vegetation in Sundarban are responsible for dynamic eco-system vigorous nutrient cycling both terrestrial and aquatic. The whole eco-system is sensitive to changes in salinity and the continuous cycle of erosion and deposition is affecting the plant communities giving rise to dynamic floristic changes. The plant communities are continuously adjusting to the new conditions. Sundarbans Tiger Reserve provides characteristic type of habitat suitable for animals inhabiting vast tidal swamp area. Because of their intimate association with the estuarine environment, sizeable portion of aquatic and semi-aquatic animal communities are inter-related with the animals inhabiting the land areas. The uniqueness of the habitat is said to have contributed to certain behavioral trends, which are characteristic of Sundarbans tigers only. It is considered that man-eating propensity of tiger in this area is hereditary acquired over a period of generations in the process of consumption of saline water.

Cheetal, wild boar, rhesus macaque are the main prey species of tiger. Aquatic animals like the crabs and fishes are also eaten by Sundarban tiger which occupies the pinnacle of both terrestrial as well as aquatic food-web. Sundarbans mangrove is the home of a number of endangered and globally threatened species. The Bengal Tiger and the fishing cat are getting effective protection here. The creeks of Sundarbans form the home of Estuarine Crocodile, Salvator Lizard (Water Monitor), River Terrapin and Horse Shoe or King Crab. This area serves as the nesting ground for endangered marine turtles like Olive Ridley, Green Turtle and Hawk's Bill Turtles. The aquatic endangered mammals like Genetic Dolphins thrive within mangrove creeks close to sea. Number of heronries form here during monsoon as well as during winter. It is home for Trans-Himalayan migratory birds.

Conservation History
The Sundarbans Tiger Reserve, created in 1973, was the part of the then 24-Pargans Division. Subsequently the area comprising of the present tiger reserve was constituted as Reserve Forest in 1978. The total area of the Sunderbans is 9630 sq. km. out of which 4264 sq. km. bears mangrove forest. The area of the Reserve is 2585 sq. km. covering land area of 1600 sq. km. and water body over 985 sq. km. Within this area 1330.12 sq. km. is designated as core area, which was subsequently declared as Sundarban National Park in 1984. An area of 124.40 sq. km. within the core area is preserved as primitive zone to act as gene pool. Within the buffer zone, Sajnekhali Wildlife sanctuary was created in 1976 covering an area of 362.335 sq. km. Considering the importance of the biogeographic region of Bengalian River Forests and its unique biodiversity the National Park area of the Reserve was included in the list of World Heritage Sites in 1985. Whole Sundarbans area was declared as Biosphere Reserve in 1989.

Forest Types

Tidal swamp forests,Saline water type mixed forests ,brackish water type mixed forests palm swamp type

Major Flora

There are 64 plant species in Sundarbans and they have the capacity to withstand estuarine conditions and saline inundation on account of tidal effects.

Main Species
Excaecaria sp., Heritiera sp., Ceriops sp., Phoenix sp., Sonneratia sp., Avicennia sp., Rhizophora sp., Xylocarpus sp., Bruguiera sp. etc.

Major Fauna

Main Species
Tiger, fishing cat, chital, wildboar, water monitor, estuarine crocodile.

Endanger Species
Tiger, Estuarian Crocodile, River Terrapin (Batagur baska), Olive Ridlay Turtle, Gangetic Dolphin, Ground Turtle, Hawks Bill Turtle, King Crabs (Horse shoe)

Management

Practices, Achievements and Shortfalls -
The Reserve has received effective protection under Project Tiger since its creation. The core area is free from all human disturbances like fishing, collection of wood, honey and other forest produces while in buffer fishing, honey collection and wood cutting are permitted to a limited extent. Protection against poaching and theft of forest produce has been ensured through intensive patrolling by staff in motorboats and launches. The offices and camps are located at strategic points to keep a watch over the area. There exists an effective communication network for protection. Furthermore, the staff is well armed. Intensive management takes care of the maintenance and improvement of the habitat through eco-conservation, eco-development, education, training and research. Mud-flats on the periphery of the reserve are artificially regenerated with mangrove plants to meet local fuel wood demand and reduce the pressure on buffer. Non-mangrove plantations are also raised along roads and embankments of the fringe area to cater the need of the fringe people. Soil conservation is taken up to stabilize the vulnerable sites. To facilitate the availability of sweet water for animals, ponds have been dug at several places in the forest.

The other main activity is controlling man-eating by tigers which existed here since time immemorial and the number of casualties have been reduced from more than 40 to less than 10 per year. This has become possible due to strict control over the movement of the people inside the tiger reserve, alternative income generation and awareness building among people. Use of human-masks, electric human dummies etc. are believed to have also contributed in controlling man-eating by tigers. The straying of tigers into the adjoining villages is a serious problem in the area. Measures like erection of branches of genwa, nylon net fencing at forest side and solar illumination at village side at night have however, helped to reduce the incidents of tiger straying. For rescuing the strayed tiger, method of tranquilization using dart gun is also applied where driving of the tiger to the nearby forest is not possible. The youth of the villages have also been imparted training to enable them to play appropriate role in controlling the straying of the tigers into the habitation.

Special Projects
The Reserve has successfully launched a special programme to conserve the highly endangered Olive Ridley Turtles. Hatching of Olive Ridley Turtles and River Terrapin is done at Sajnekhali to replenish their population.

Eco-development
Co-operation of fringe people in the conservation of the tiger habitat, as it could gradually be felt, has been possible through constant motivation and awareness building of the people as well as increased public liaison and their involvement in the planning process for implementation of eco-development programme. Participatory Management has already been introduced in Sundarbans Tiger Reserve and 10 Forest Protection Committees and 14 Eco-development Committees have been formed in the fringe of Sundarbans Tiger Reserve and the response is positive. In Sundarbans the following eco-development activities have been undertaken.
  1. Excavation of rain water irrigation channel to increase agricultural production.
  2. Provision of pisciculture ponds in the buffer area to be managed by village co-operative for prawns and sweet water fish. This will help in income generation.
  3. Provision of Solar lights in the villages on the periphery both for lighting as well as to scare away tiger from straying into the villages.
  4. Provision of smokeless chullahs for optimization of fuel consumption.
  5. Raising mangrove plantations on the periphery to meet local fuel wood demand
  6. Provision of medical care facilities to the villagers through collaborative efforts of the Management and NGOs
  7. Village Forest Protection Committees
  8. Ten Village Forest Protection Committees have been formed by the management and villagers.
Education and Awareness
Mangrove eco-system is very fragile and people's sustenance in the area, again, mainly depends on the maintenance and sustainable use of the eco-system. At the same time this eco-system is the most productive eco-system on the planet guiding the benefit of the nutrient cycling of both terrestrial as well as marine system. Therefore, understanding of the system and its importance is very useful to the people and awareness building among the people around the mangrove forest is necessary. Educating people around the Reserve about the importance of conservation of mangrove eco-system and its natural resources as well as launching of programme of training and demonstration of improvised technology for bringing socio-economic development in the region will certainly help in the conservation of this unique ecosystem. Thus, seminars, workshops, awareness camps etc are organised frequently in the vicinity of Reserve. Interpretation trips are also arranged for school students, villagers, Panchayat members and women. Audio-visual equipment is being used to highlight the need of conservation of nature and eco-system. Short term training course about the mangrove eco-system are conducted for the registered local tourist guides, which has generated local interest and employment. The Mangrove Interpretation Centre established at Sajnekhali will play a great role in awareness building and orientation of the people and tourist towards the paramount importance of conservation of nature in general and the mangrove eco-systems in particular.

Protection Squads / Patrolling
Anti-poaching camps are manned by 2-3 knowledgeable labourers and supervised by concerned beat guard/Forester/Range officer.

Constraints
There is no denying the fact that the mangrove zone because of its difficult geographic situation and hostile terrain criss-crossed by a network of turbulent streams and having long stretch of international border with Bangladesh and fishing arena in the sea for thousands of trawlers and mechanised boats is vulnerable to various threats like poaching of animals and pilferage of woods. Compared to the size of this protected area and the proportion of problems which is encountered here the logistic support in terms of staff strength, infrastructure facilities and availability of fund is inadequate.

Human population
There is no village inside the Reserve.

Outside the Tiger Reserve there are more than 1000 villages within Sundarbans area out of which around 100 villages are very close to STR at the north and north-west fringe of the Reserve.

Livestock population
There is no livestock in the Reserve.

Encroachment
There is no encroachment within the Sundarbans Tiger Reserve area. An attempt for encroachment was made in 1978 in the Jhila Block (Marichjhapadi) by the refugees from Bangladesh but the attempt was thwarted and the area was made free from encroachers.

Grazing
As the mangrove forest of Sundarbans Tiger Reserve is bounded all through its periphery by streams and creeks, there is no problem of cattle grazing within the reserve.

Fire
Fire does not occur.

Poaching of fauna and flora
The core area of the Reserve is free from all biotic interference though attempts of fishing are a disturbance.

Diseases
There has been no incidence of epidemic

Control of the Buffer
Control of buffer is with the management of the Reserve.

Conflicts

Man-Animal
Man-eating propensity of Sundarban tiger has been a great problem. This happens with either attack on villagers entering the forest or by tiger straying into the habitation. Numerous steps taken by the management has mitigated this problem to a large extent.

Man-Forest
Dire poverty urges the people of Sundarbans to frequent the forest in search of livelihood. Some of them take the risk of cyclone for fishing and other enter the forest to collect honey and fuel wood. The vulnerable mangrove eco-system is under stress due to such interference.

Wild Animal - Forest
Total protection of vegetation in the core area without any manipulation of crop density appears not to create ideal habitat condition for the tiger and its prey animals


SALIENT FEATURES

Area
Core : 1330 sq km

Buffer : 1255 sq km

Total : 2585 sq. km.

Longitude : 88°05' and 89°10' East

Latitude : 21°32' and 22°40' North

Altitude : 5.8 m to 6.1 m above M.S.L.

Rainfall : Average annual 1920.30 mm


Temperature

Minimum : 20° C

Maximum : 33.88° C

Seasons

Winter - October to January

Summer - February to May

Monsoon - June to September


HIGHWAYS
Proposal for National Waterways through Sundarban: The proposed National water ways if declared through the mangrove forests of Sundarbans particularly through the portion of Tiger Reserve will adversely affect the ecosystem destroying the flora and fauna due to large scale human activities within the protected area, dredging of streams and oil spills of numerous water crafts and vessels carrying cargo.

TOURISM
The entry of the tourists is restricted only within buffer area. There is one tourist lodge at Sajnakhati to provide accommodation facilities for the tourists. Zilla Parishad, 24 Pgns(N) has also created accommodation facility at Hemnagar close to the Northern boundary of Sunderbans Tiger Reserve.
Year National Foreigner
1992-93 25824 5%
1993-94 23437 6%
1994-95 41818 8%
1995-96 45354 8%
1996-97 35515 7%

REACHING THERE
By Air
Dum Dum (166kms), is the nearest airport at Calcutta.

By Rail
The nearest railhead is at Canning, 48 km away. The nearest town is Gosaba, 50 km away.
Sunderbans is accessible only by riverine waterways. From Calcutta there are suburban trains to Canning and buses to Namkhana, Raidighi, Sonakhali and Najat from where motor launch services are available for Sunderbans.

By Road
Means of road transport are available from Calcutta for the places like Namkhana (105 km), Sonakhali (100 km), Raidighi (76 km), Canning (64 km), and Najat (92 km), which are all near the Sunderbans and have access to the riverine waterways leading to it.
Waterways
The approximate time taken between various points is :

From Namkhana - Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project (2.5 hours) Sagar Island (2.5 hours) Jambudwip (3.5 hours)

From Sajnekhali - Sudhanyakhali (40 minutes) Buridabri (Tiger Project Area) (5 hours) Netidhopan (3.5 hours) Holiday Island (3 hours)

From Sonakhali - Gosaba (1 hour) From Raidighi - Kalas (5 hours).

Practicalities
Foreigners require a permit to visit the Sunderbans; if you're travelling to the area independently (tour companies will get them for you), get your permit in advance from the WB Tourist Centre in Kolkata. You'll also need to book accommodation in the main camp of the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve, at the tiny hamlet of SAJNEKHALI, which is sealed off from the jungle by wire fencing (though tigers still stray into the compound); permits are meticulously checked as you pass through the gates, where you are also required to pay for an additional day permit (Rs15), plus the entry fee (Rs5) and, if applicable, camera fees. The Sunderbans Jungle Camp itself is a large ramshackle forest lodge built on stilts; the price includes meals. The adjacent Project Tiger compound has a mini zoo, a small museum and a watchtower. Food is left out for the wild animals in the late afternoons, which invariably attracts deer and monkeys but rarely tigers. However, the cats have been known to jump the fence and it's advised not to venture out after dark. Other Sunderbans watchtowers stand at Sudhannyakhali, Haldi and Netidhopani, near the ruins of a four-hundred-year-old temple that's approached via caged pathways meant to protect you from the very real threat of tiger attack.

All transport within the reserve is by boat; these can be rented with the help of the lodge staff for around Rs1000 per whole day - you have to take along a Project Tiger guide (Rs200). The loud diesel motors of the boats tend to scare wildlife away, but when they cut their engines the silence is awesome.

The best times to visit are winter and spring. As getting to the Sunderbans from Kolkata is a laborious process, you might want to opt for an all-inclusive package tour booked through the West Bengal Tourist Centre (033/2248 5917). Two- and three-day packages with stays either on the boat or at the Tourist Lodge, start from Rs1175. The cruises can get crowded and don't expect peace and quiet. The main disadvantage of joining such large tours is that the general chatter reduces the likelihood of seeing any animals, and the cruises can get crowded. Tailor-made tours by private operators tend to be more peaceful and leisurely: try Australian Kali Travel Home, or Neil Law of Himalayan Footprints. Help Tourism have their own resort, a tasteful development of thatched cottages on Bali island near the reserve and employ local villagers as guides; they also have their own boat. Prices (from Rs5000 for a three-day package) are steep, but the opportunity to get deep into the forest makes it worth a splurge. The cheaper but less imaginative Sunderbans Tiger Camp (033/2229 8606, sunderbanstigercamp@hotmail.com; Rs1000–3000) in Dayapur near Gosaba, is in the core area of the reserve; most guests staying here are on one of the WBTC tours from Kolkata. The range of accommodation, all in a secure compound, includes two- to four-man tents and comfortable a/c cottages. Three-day packages cost from Rs2550.

Getting to the Sunderbans using public transport is complicated, whether by train (from Sealdah; the route is outlined in reverse, below) or by bus. To go by road, start by catching a bus from Babu Ghat to Basanti (4 daily; 3hr); aim for the one at 7am. From Basanti, you cross by ferry to Gosaba, an hour-long trip through the delta - sit well away from the belching diesel engines. Sajnekhali is a six-kilometre cycle rickshaw ride from Gosaba. Finally, to reach the Project Tiger compound itself, and the Tourist Lodge, you have to cross the estuarine channel on a country boat from the further back and less likely looking of the two ghats. There isn't usually a lot of traffic around here, so you may well have to wait or appeal to local boatmen. Returning to Kolkata, allow plenty of time to make all the connections; the last bus leaves Basanti around 4pm. Alternatively, shared auto-scooters from Basanti can take you to Doc Ghat (30min), to pick up a boat across the river to Canning, and then a local train to Sealdah via Ballygunge station. If you're unlucky enough to find that the tide is out when you get to Canning, you're faced with a laborious 500-metre wade through calf-deep squelchy mud. A short walk through the town brings you to the station, where there are taps to wash off the mud. Your reward is the train ride itself, infinitely faster and more comfortable than the bus.

STAYING THERE
Forest lodges and forest rest houses are available for accommodation at Sajnekhali.

LINKS TO THE OUTSIDE WORLD
At Sajnekhali, STD/ISD facilities and postal facilities are available. Internet facilities are available

TRAVEL TIPS
Permission has to be acquired to visit the tiger reserve from the Field Director, Sunderbans Tiger Reserve, Port Canning.
CONTACT FIELD DIRECTOR

Field Director,
Sundarbans Tiger Reserves P.O.
Canning Twon,
District 24 Parganas,
West Bengal-743329
Telephone No.- 03218-256159(O) & 255280(O), 033-24746342(R)
Fax N0 - 256159 Tele-Fax
E-mail address - suntiger@cal2.vsnl.net.in

If you are planning to visit Sunderbans National park you can refer the Sunderban Accommodation Guide. If you have any other queries, you can ask the Kolkata City Expert. Sunderbans is the world's largest Mangroves, its a different type of Reserve forest and a nust go.