Thursday 15 February, 2007

Carnival De Goa. Everyone's invited !

Manha de Carnival! Remember the song? It is a Brazilian song, very popular the world over, which celebrates the return of joy: alegria voltou

The joy returns every year for less than a week-five days in Brazil, four nights in Goa-before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent which was once a dreary season of penance and abstinence-40 long week days preceding Easter Sunday.

Carnival in Goa is a non-stop 3-day festival of color, song and music, providing a healthy entertainment for all, young and old. The soothing climate, full of fun- 'n' -frolic, which the Carnival generates, is much longed for. It does not matter whether one enjoys or see others enjoying. There is enthusiasm and happiness all around. Among the many and various colorful feasts and festivals that are celebrated in Goa, the Goa Carnaval is the most eagerly awaited event.

Meaning Behind Carnival
The word 'carnival' is said to be derived from the Latin 'Carne', meaning meat, and 'Vale', which translates to 'good-bye'. Some also link the word to 'Carnislevamen' or 'the pleasures of meat', focusing on the enjoyment of meat during the festivities, before the abstinence that follows during Lent. Another hypothesis suggests that the word came from 'Carrus Navalis', the horse-drawn, boat-shaped carriage that was paraded during the Roman festival Saturnalia, in honor of Saturn. It carried men and women in fancy dresses, wearing masks, and singing obscene songs. It is possible that the present-day concept of a carnival emerged from this parade.

Originination Of The Festivity
The Goa Carnival is an integral part of the Portuguese heritage of the state, which was a dominion of Portugal till 1961. The carnival epitomizes the fun-loving culture that is characteristic of Goa. It was introduced by the erstwhile rulers as a rowdy celebration in which flour, eggs, oranges, lemons, mud, sand-filled gloves along with dirty water, various liquids and glue were aimed at passersby. Used pots, pans, and other kitchen utensils were also thrown out of windows. Perhaps this was done to discard the old and the dirty before the Lenten fast. Fierce battles were waged in the streets, with plaster-of-Paris eggs, wax lemons, corncobs and beans. Blows were dealt out liberally, with brooms and wooden spoons. It was also an occasion for unchecked eating. People gorged on rich food at lavish feasts, and convents distributed cakes and pastries. Though celebrated for only three days, the preparations for the festival would take many days, and build up to a frenetic pitch by the eve of the carnival. The carnival in Goa still retains the core of the original. A King of Chaos is elected, called King "Momo". He presides over the three-day festivities, which attract visitors from all over India and abroad.

Carnival in Goa was a great leveler. Early accounts-all of them hearsay-are indeed educative. The white masters masqueraded as black slaves and the latter-generally slaves brought in from Mozambique-plastered their faces with flour and wore high battens, or walked on stilts. For those three ephemeral days, they were happy to be larger than life. And while the whites and the blacks mimicked each other the brown locals watched this reversal of roles in awe from the sidelines. Goa Carnival In course of time, when the imperial regime mellowed and inhibitions dwindled, Carnival, no more an excuse to be what one was not—and often hoped to be—became a time for bonhomie. The old crude mimicry blossomed into social satire. In the villages, the playwrights pieced together in Khel (Konkani for play) anecdotes, events and criticism. The Portuguese Governor General, his family and retinue used the occasion for a show of diplomacy. They showered the crowds with poudre de riz and confetti, and were happy to be showered back. At the Carnival balls, the governor-general danced with whom he pleased-provided, of course the lady agreed to the request. And anyone was free to ask the governor-general’s wife for a dance. And if the tangoit was the tango they danced cheek-to-cheek, hip-to-hip. Once, Carnival was a mood. It had no spectators and it was strictly for participants. From dawn to dusk and back to dawn again, they sang and danced, changed costumes and partners and serenaded their namorados, girlfriends, escorted by their guardians, the debutantes giggled and grouped their first masqued ball. Those who feel in love during Carnival married after Easter.

A Musical Extravaganza
Street Plays, songs, dances, and unrehearsed farces mocking the establishment are performed before an enthusiastic, responsive audience. Floats depicting popular lullabies and nursery rhymes make a whimsical and colorful sight on the streets. In the three days of celebrations, cultural functions and competitions abound, and are judged by specially selected people. King Momo distributes the prizes to the winners. The contestants wear colorful costumes and elaborate masks. Amidst the outrageous dresses seen on the street are some made of sheer, transparent polythene. In the fun-filled ambience, people smear color on each other, instead of the flour, eggs, fruit and water that used to be used in earlier times.

Everyone's Invited
In Goan villages, however, the festivities have a more indigenous flavor. Though celebrated by the Christian population of Goa, the carnival's only relevance to Christianity is that it is celebrated before Lent. The festival today has no religious undertones and has come to be a cultural highlight of the state, rather than of the religion. Carnival In Goa, Goa Carnival Tour, Goa Festival The 'Carnaval’ is exclusive and unique to Goa, and was introduced by the Portuguese who ruled over Goa for over five hundred years.

Although, the three-day festival is primarily celebrated by Christians, it has also absorbed Hindu tradition revelry, western dance forms, and turned into a pageantry of sorts. Though it started as a celebration enjoyed only by the local population, it has today crossed the state frontiers and attracts thousands of people from all over the country.

The carnival is held in February for three days and nights, when the legendary king Momo takes over the state and the streets come alive with music and color. Then begins the weeklong event, which is a time of unbridled festivity and merry-making, which has been celebrated since the 18th Century. The carnival is meant to be a feasting-drinking-merrymaking orgy just before the austere 40 days of Lent. Huge parades are organized throughout the state with bands, dances and floats out all night on the streets, and grand balls held in the evenings. The carnival concludes with the famous red-and-black dance held by the Clube National in Panajim on the final day. The origins and nature of the carnival can be traced to the hedonistic feasts of ancient Rome and Greece. These carivals started in the Spanish and Portugese colonies, and gradually became known for their singing, dancing and drinking. The carnival is presided over by King Momo, who on the opening day orders his subjects to party. Hotel bookings must be done in advance for carnival as the festival attracts thousands of tourists. Tour to Carnival The word Carnival (Carnaval in Portuguese) is derived from a Latin word meaning ‘to take away meat’ and is an expression of the 40-day period of fasting of Lent, during which abstinence from meat is a rule.

The carnival is not celebrated anywhere else in India and was in decline even in Goa in the last few years of Portuguese rule. Its revival with the Liberation of Goa, and a boost to its tourism was therefore welcome. From being almost on the brink of decline, this three day festival of gay abandon and riotous revelry now attracts thousands of tourists to Goa from all over India every year!

If you are planning to indulge in this roit of Joy and Fun, you can refer the Goa Accommodation Guide. If you have any local queries regarding Goa Ask the Goa City Expert !

Those who haven't been to Rio's Carnival , Goa Carnival will be just the beginning.
Unfold urself, Scoop out the energy out of you for this extravaganza.

Tuesday 13 February, 2007

Kerala Back Waters

"The God's Own Country" or "The Land of Coco Trees"

A pleasant place to escape from the madding crowds of the cities and towns, Kerala Backwaters are Nice place to cruise on the rivers with an opportunity to see the local village life of Kerala. Kerala, a land of great natural beauty possess many rivers, which glide across the plains to merge their waters with the Arabian sea. Kerala's centuries-old, palm fringed Kerala backwaters stretch over 1900 kms. These backwaters are the prominent feature of a holiday in Kerala. Hear the soothing sound of water rippling alongside your houseboat, as you drift on a Kerala backwater. Feel completely relaxed as you enter a world of serenity and natural beauty in Kerala. See the green countryside, swaying palm trees, emerald rice fields and children waving from the banks of the backwaters of Kerala, India, as you sail on traditional Ketuvalloms or houseboats, on a Kerala backwater. Be transported to a paradise where land, sea and sky, come together in a union of elements.

One of the most memorable experiences for travellers in India - even those on the lowest of budgets - is the opportunity to take a boat journey on the backwaters of Kerala. Immortalized as the setting for Arundhati Roy's Booker-prize-winning novel The God of Small Things, the area known as Kuttanad stretches for 75km from Kollam in the south to Kochi in the north, sandwiched between the sea and the hills. This bewildering labyrinth of shimmering waterways, composed of lakes, canals, rivers and rivulets, is lined with dense tropical greenery, and preserves rural Keralan lifestyles that are completely hidden from the road.

Views change from narrow canals and dense vegetation to open vistas and dazzling green paddy fields. Homes, farms, churches, mosques and temples can be glimpsed among the trees, and every so often you might catch the blue flash of a kingfisher, or the green of a parakeet. Pallas fishing eagles cruise above the water looking for prey and cormorants perch on logs to dry their wings. Daily life continues both on the water and the palm-fringed shorelines. Families subsist on tiny pockets of land, with just enough room for a simple house, yard and boat, and bathe and wash their clothes - sometimes their buffaloes, too - at the water's edge. Powered both by gondolier-like boatmen with poles and by sail, kettu vallams glide past laden with heavyweight cargoes, and fishermen work from rowing boats or operate massive Chinese nets on the shore.

Coconut trees at improbable angles form shady canopies, and occasionally you pass under simple curved bridges. Here and there, basic drawbridges can be raised on ropes, but major bridges are few and far between; most people rely on boatmen to ferry them across the water to connect with roads and bus services, a constant criss-crossing of the waters from dawn until dusk (a way of life beautifully represented in the visually stunning film Piravi, by Keralan director Shaji). Poles sticking out of the water indicate dangerous shallows.

The African moss that often carpets the surface of the narrower waterways may look attractive, but it is actually a menace to small craft traffic and starves underwater life of light. It is also a symptom of the many serious ecological problems currently affecting the region, whose population density ranges from between two and four times that of other coastal areas in southwest India. This has put growing pressure on land, and hence a greater reliance on fertilizers, which eventually work their way into the water causing the build up of moss. Illegal land reclamation, however, poses the single greatest threat to this fragile ecosystem. In a little over a century, the total area of water in Kuttanad has been reduced by two-thirds, while mangrove swamps and fish stocks have been decimated by pollution and the spread of towns and villages around the edges of the backwater region. Unfortunately, tourism is now adding to the problem, as the barely perceptible film of oil from motorized ferries and houseboats spreads through the waters. This kills yet more fish and the number of bird species found in the region has been reduced by over fifty percent to under one hundred. Some of the tourist agencies are trying to lessen the impact by introducing more eco-friendly vessels and you can always play your part by asking for one.

As you float on a Kerala backwater, the beauty of the serene waterways and quaint inlets and creeks along the coast of Kerala will enchant you. Experience an unforgettable journey, along the tranquil backwaters of Kerala, India. It is an incredible experience to sail down these soothing waters in a house boat and comprehend the unusual aspects of Kerala life. Kerala's unique houseboats, also known as Kettuvalloms helps the tourist in discovering the enchanting backwaters and lively villages of Kerala on a houseboat cruise. Few of the popular backwater destinations are:

Kumarakom Backwaters: Kumarakom is a cluster of little islands located on the banks of the famous Vembanad Lake. The Vembanad Lake displays an intricate and enchantingly beautiful web of majestic canals, streams and distributaries. The gorgeous green of the fringed palms beautifully contrast with the ripple in the blue waters. The water ways of Kumarakom is now a big attraction for tourist.

Kollam Backwaters: Known as the entry and exit point of the backwaters of Kerala, Kollam is situated 71 km to the north of Thiruvananthapuram. It is one of the oldest ports of the Malabar coast and was once the center of international spice trade, especially known for its marine and cashew industries. It is also the largest producer of cashew in the state.

Alleppy Backwaters,Trivandrum backwaters: The extensive backwaters of Trivandrum provide the picturesque view of a paradise. The intricate lagoons, lakes, canals and rivers are lined up along the dense tropical vegetation of Trivandrum. The backwaters form a specially attractive and economically valuable feature of Kerala. The biggest backwater is the Vembabad lake, some 200 sq kilometers in area, which opens out into the Arabian Sea at Cochin port.

Alleppy backwaters: Alappuzha ia prominent on the tourist trail as it is one of the major centers for backwater boat trips. With Arabian sea on the west, Alappuzha has a large network of lakes, lagoons and several freshwater rivers intersections. Alappuzha has grown in importance as a backwater tourist center, attracting several thousands of foreign tourists every year who come here to enjoy the serene marine beauty of the state. Boat races, houseboat holidays, beaches, marine products and coir industry are some of the major attractions offered by Alappuzha. Under its former appellation of Alleppey, ALAPPUZHA, roughly midway between Kollam (85km south) and Kochi (64km north) was one of the best-known ports along the Malabar coast. Contemporary tourist literature is fond of referring to the town as "Venice of the East", but while it may be full of interconnecting canals, there the resemblance ends. Alappuzha has a bustling, messy centre of ramshackle wood and corrugated iron-roofed houses, although some suburban parts are quiet and leafy. The town is chiefly significant in the coir industry, which accounts for much of the traffic on its sludgy waterways. The town is prominent on the tourist trail as one of the major centres for backwater boat trips, served by ferries to and from Kollam and Kottayam. Most visitors stay just one night, catching a boat or bus out early the next morning. A commendable time-killing walk takes you about 1km northeast of the centre to the lakeside, shaded under a canopy of palm trees. Alappuzha really comes alive on the second Saturday of August, in the depths of the rainy season, when it serves as the venue for one of Kerala's major spectacles - the Nehru Trophy snakeboat race. This event, first held in 1952, is based on the traditional Keralan enthusiasm for racing magnificently decorated longboats, with raised rears designed to resemble the hood of a cobra. More than enthusiastically powered by up to 150 singing and shouting oarsmen, scores of boats take part, and Alappuzha is packed with thousands of spectators. Similar races can be seen at Aranmula, and at Champakulam, 16km by ferry from Alappuzha.

Kerala House Boats
Kerala's unique houseboats, also known as Kettuvalloms helps the tourist in discovering the fascinating backwaters and lively villages of Kerala on a houseboat cruise. The Kettuvalloms (houseboats) of Kerala are giant country crafts, measuring up to 80 feet in length. Thus, these extravagant houseboats takes you along a vast network of lagoons, lakes, rivers and canals and provide you excellent facilities of inland navigation. Apart from excellent outlook, these houseboats are extremely eco-friendly, as it is made of of bamboo poles, coconut fiber, ropes, bamboo mats, carpets etc.The houseboats have all the creature comforts of a good hotel including furnished bedrooms, modern toilets, cozy living rooms, a kitchen and even a balcony for angling. Parts of the curved roof of wood or plaited palm open out to provide shade and allow uninterrupted views. Whenever you will wish, the houseboat stops to let you photograph some of the most scenic points or slowed it's pace where the scenery was more beautiful.

The houseboats of today are used for leisure trips, but in old days, these Kettuvalloms were used for commercial purpose. The original Kettuvalloms were used to carry tonnes of rice and spices from Kuttanad to the Kochi port. But due to the large influx of modern day transport facilities, these houseboat revived themselves as a luxurious entity.The tourist are also given personalized information regarding the process of crafting these beautiful boats. You can visit coir factories to view the coir making process used as an essential component of the houseboat. Apart from this, view the local villagers fishing, tapping toddy and making rice along the strips of land lined with coconut trees.

Routes and Practicalities
There are numerous backwater routes to choose from, on vessels ranging from local ferries, through chauffeur-driven speedboats offered by the KTDC, to customized kettu vallam and rice boat cruises. The most popular excursion is the full-day journey between Kollam and Alappuzha. All sorts of private hustlers offer their services, but the principal boats are run on alternate days by the Alleppey Tourism Development Co-op (ATDC) and the District Tourism Promotion Council (DTPC). The double-decker boats leave from both Kollam and Alappuzha daily, departing at 10.30am (10am check-in); tickets cost Rs300 and can be bought in advance or on the day, at the ATDC/DTPC counters, other agents and some hotels. Both companies make three stops during the 8hr journey, including one for lunch, and another at the renowned Mata Amritanandamayi Mission at Amritapuri, around three hours north of Kollam. Foreigners are welcome to stay at the ashram (0476/289 6399, www.amritapuri.org), which is the home of the renowned female guru, Shri Amritanandamayi Devi, known as the "hugging Mama" because she gives each of her visitors and devotees a big, power-imparting hug during the daily darshan sessions. The Rs150 a night includes a basic room in the startling high-rise block and simple meals.

Although it is by far the most popular backwater trip, many tourists find the Alappuzha-Kollam route too long and at times uncomfortable, with crowded decks and intense sun. There's also something faintly embarrassing about being cooped up with a crowd of fellow tourists madly photographing any signs of life on the water or canal banks, while gangs of kids scamper alongside the boat screaming "one pen, one pen". You can sidestep the tourist scene completely by catching local ferries. These are a lot slower and more crowded, but you'll gain a more intimate experience of life on the backwaters. The trip from Alappuzha to Kottayam (5 daily; Rs10) is particularly recommended. The first ferry leaves at 7.30am; arrive early to get a good place with uninterrupted views. There are also numerous daily ferries that ply routes between local villages, allowing you to hop on and off as you like. The scenery on these routes is often more varied than between Alappuzha and Kollam, beginning with open lagoons and winding up on narrow canals through densely populated coconut groves and islands; furthermore the tickets cost a fraction of the tourist boats. Whichever boat you opt for, take a sun hat and plenty of water. Check the departure times in advance, as these can vary from year to year.

Although backwater life may seem idyllic, there have been recent reports of theft, especially during the night when the crew sleep on land and windows are left open - so take care of your belongings at all times; lock them away if possible, or at the very least, keep them away from the windows. Also insist your boat is not moored near one with a generator that may run all night. Groups of up to ten people can charter a kettu vallam moored at Karunagapalli for a day's cruise on the backwaters. Boats have comfortable cane chairs and a raised central platform where passengers can laze on cushions; there are bathrooms on board plus food and drinks are available. Whether powered by local gondoliers or by sail, the trip is as quiet and restful as you could possibly want. Starting at Rs4000 for the day, including lunch, the luxury is well worth it.

If you are planning to visit Kerala, you can refer the Kerala Cities / Towns Accommodation Guides given below.

Its really God's Own country.

Monday 12 February, 2007

Jaisalmer Fort, The Golden Fortress

Jaisalmer Fort is one of the largest of desert forts of the world. It is situated in Jaisalmer city in Indian state of Rajasthan. It was built in 1156 AD by the Bhati Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, from where it derives it name. The fort stands proudly admist the golden stretches of the great Thar Desert, on Trikuta Hill and had been the scene of many battles. Its massive yellow sandstone walls are a tawny lion color during the day, turning to a magical honey-goldas the sun sets and camouflages the fort making it appear a part of the picturesque yellow desert. Thus, no wonder, it is also known as the "Golden Fort". The stunning Jaisalmer Fort made of golden yellow sandstone set is like an amber jewel in the Rajasthan desert. Situated on Trikuta Hill in Jaisalmer. It is one of the oldest forts in Rajasthan. The golden - yellow sandstone of Jaisalmer Fort, over 800 years old, crowns the Trikuta Hill. Within its walls, defended by 99 turrets, lies the old city, nearly a quarter of modern Jaisalmer. Seen from outside, the sight must be almost identical to what was seen by merchants on their overland camel caravans to central Asia. Once this desert outpost was an important gate for the trade route, and Jaisalmer grew wealthy on the proceeds. But the advent of commercial shipping relegated the town to relative obscurity.

The famous Indian film director Satyajit Ray wrote a detective novel and later made it into a film — Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress) which was based on this fort. The Sonar Kella rises from the sand and merges with the golden hues of the arid ambience blending medieval temper with modern day vibrancy.

Every part of Jaisalmer Fort, from its outer walls to the palace, temples and houses within, is made of soft yellow Jurassic sandstone. The narrow winding streets are flanked with carved sandy facades, and from the barrel-sided bastions, some of which still bear cannons, you can see the thick walls that drop almost 100m to the town below. Two thousand people live inside it; seventy percent of them are brahmins and the rest, living primarily on the east side, predominantly Rajput.

A paved road punctuated by four huge gateways winds up to the Fort, built when the city was founded in 1156. Traitors and criminals were thrown into the "death well" by the second gate. The fourth gateway leads into Main Chowk, where terrible acts of johar once took place, women choosing death rather than dishonour for themselves and their children after their husbands left for the battlefield. The chowk is dominated by the old palace of the Maharawal (daily: summer 8am-6pm; winter 9am-6pm; Rs70, plus Rs50 for camera, Rs150 video; guided tour Rs100-200), whose five-storey facade of balconies and windows displays some of the finest masonry in Jaisalmer. The monarch would address his troops and issue orders from the large ornate marble throne to the left of the palace entrance. The interior, painted and tiled in typical Rajput style, has been converted into a museum. Displays are quite minimal, but look for the family tree showing the maharaja's 21 different wives and their respective lineages. You'll also see an assortment of royal garbs, weapons, thrones, and most curiously, Raj-era royal stamps. Thanks to restoration work supported by Jaisalmer in Jeopardy, the zenana (women's) quarter known as Rani ka Mahal was recently reopened. The fact that this richly filigreed edifice is standing - it was little more than a pile of rubble a few years ago - is a minor miracle. Although the Fort holds temples dedicated to Surya, Lakshmi, Ganesh, Vishnu and Shiva, none is as impressive as the complex of Jain temples (daily 7.30am-12.30pm; Rs10, plus Rs50 for camera, Rs100 video; usual restrictions on leather and menstruation apply). Built between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries in the familiar Jurassic sandstone, with yellow and white marble shrines and exquisite sculpted motifs covering the walls, ceilings and pillars, the temples are connected by small corridors and stairways. In a vault beneath the Sambhavnath temple, the Gyan Bhandar (daily 10-11am) contains Jain manuscripts, paintings and astrological charts dating back to the eleventh century, among them one of India's oldest surviving palm-leaf books, a copy of Dronacharya's Oghaniryaktivritti (1060).


Shopping in Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer's flourishing tourist trade has made it one of the best places in India to shop for souvenirs. Prices are comparatively high and the salesmen notoriously hard at work, but the choice of stuff on sale puts the town on a par with Pushkar and Jaipur. As well as embroidered patchwork tapestries, good buys include woven jackets, tie-dyed cloth, puppets, wooden boxes and ornaments, camel-leather slippers (jutties) and Western-style clothes. Most items can be found at Shree Art Palace and the adjacent stores inside the first Fort gate.Every conceivable kind of traditional Rajasthani textile is sold at shops in and around the Fort. Most of the pieces on offer are specially made for the tourist trade, but you can occasionally find older garments, or patches worked into wall-hangings, at the more established dealers. A good place to start looking is the Barmer Embroidery House, near the Patwon-ki-Haveli, Gangana Para, in the north of town. Stock here ranges from standard Jaipuri block-printed bedspreads and mirror work or appliqué cushion covers to rare door-hangings (torans), ornately embroidered cradle covers, sari blouses (choli), Lamani chillum pouches and silk-woven mashru skirts from the remote Muslim villages of Kutch. Also worth a visit is Light of the East, near Kund Para Chowk, which sells high quality emeralds, amethysts and other rare minerals, along with crystals. One item is not for sale - the football-sized apophyllite, which the knowledgeable owner keeps under lock in a glass case.


Jaisalmer in jeopardy
Signboards, banners and electric wires may have horribly disfigured Jaisalmer, but the tourist boom has created a far more serious, potentially irreversible threat to the town's survival. Erected on a base of soft bantonite clay, sand and sandstone, the foundations of Rajasthan's most picturesque citadel are rapidly eroding because of huge increases in water consumption. At the height of the tourist season, around 120 litres per head are pumped into the area - twelve times the quantity used fifteen years ago. Many believe the troubles started in the late 1980s when the city spent Rs9 million on replacing the open sewers with covered drainage; unfortunately their technological trick backfired and large quantities of water ended up seeping into the soil, weakening the citadel's foundations. Compounding the problem has been the increased planting of trees, which keeps the ground moist. The result has been disastrous; houses have collapsed and significant damage has been done to the sixteenth-century Maharani's Palace. In 1998 six people died when an exterior wall collapsed, and five more bastions fell in 2000 and 2001. (Ironically, recent drought in Rajasthan has dried the fort out and no great damage has been reported since - although a normal monsoon could change that quickly.) Jaisalmer is now listed among the World Monument Fund's 100 Most Endangered Sites.

The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH: www.intach.net) has spent more than $100,000 repairing the Maharani's Palace, and an international campaign, Jaisalmer in Jeopardy (JiJ), has been set up to facilitate repairs throughout the fort. JiJ has already upgraded more than half of the 350 homes in the fort with underground sewerage, repaired their facades and replaced grey cement with traditional material. To see some of its work, visit the new Heritage Centre inside the palace. Despite the repairs, city authorities still think the best way to save the fort is to evacuate the 2000 people who live there and start the drainage repairs over from scratch, an expensive and time-consuming venture much opposed by the thirty-plus hotel owners inside whose earnings depend on tourism. The JiJ campaign relies substantially on donations. If you'd like to help, contact "Sue Carpenter at 3 Brickbarn Close, London SW10 0UJ ( & +44(0)20/7352 4336", www.jaisalmer-in-jeopardy.org). Bear in mind, too, that you can make a small difference by not staying in the fort or, if you do, by conserving water as much as possible while you're there.

Jaisalmer now has a good range of places to stay and eat. Some of the best and inexpensive places of accomodation are :-

If you are planning to visit Jaisalmer you can refer the Jaisalmer Accomodation Guide.
Its worth visiting.