Corbett Tiger Reserve and National Park

Based at Ramnagar, 250km northeast of Delhi and 63km southwest of Nainital, Corbett Tiger Reserve is one of India's premier wildlife reserves. Established in 1936 by Jim Corbett (among others) as the Hailey National Park, India's first, and later renamed in his honour, it is one of Himalayan India's last expanses of wilderness. Almost the entire 1288-square-kilometre park, spread over the foothills of Kumaon, is sheltered by a buffer zone of mixed deciduous and giant sal forests, which provide impenetrable cover for wildlife. Most of the core area of 520 square kilometres at its heart remains out of bounds, and safaris on foot are only permissible in the fringe forests.

Corbett is most famous for its big cats, and in particular the tiger - this was the first designated Project Tiger Reserve, in 1973 - but its 143 tigers are extremely elusive. Sightings are very far from guaranteed, and should be regarded as an unlikely bonus. Nonetheless, although there have been problems elsewhere with the project, and the very survival of the tiger in India is in serious jeopardy , Corbett does at least seem to be prioritizing the needs of tigers over those of other wildlife and of tourists. Still, poaching is not unheard of - five tigers were killed in the Himalayan foothills in early 2001, two inside the Corbett boundaries. It's Corbett's elephants, however, that face a more serious threat. Around two dozen are killed each year in and around the park; poisoned by plantation workers or shot by farmers for hide, meat and, most importantly, their valuable tusks. The park's 627 elephants - 100 of them males with tusks - have been confined within its boundaries since the construction of the Ramganga reservoir in 1974 blocked migratory routes that formerly ranged as far as Rajaji National Park, 200km west. The best place to see them is around the picturesque Dhikala camp near the reservoir; spring is the best time, when the water level drops and the animals have more space to roam. The reservoir also shelters populations of gharial, a long-snouted, fish-eating crocodile, and maggar, a large marsh crocodile, as well as other reptiles. Jackal are common, and wild boar run through the camps in the evenings. The grasslands around Dhikala are home to deer species such as the spotted chital, hog and barking deer and the larger sambar, while rhesus and common langur, the two main classes of Indian monkeys, are both abundant, and happy to provide in-camp entertainment. Bird life ranges from water birds such as the pied kingfisher to birds of prey, including the crested serpent eagle, Pallas's fishing eagle and Himalayan greyheaded fishing eagle. The closest of the various gates into the park, 1km from central Ramnagar, is Amdanda on the road to Bijrani camp, 11km away, a base for day-trips. Dhangarhi Gate, 18km along the highway north to Ranikhet, provides access to the northern and northwestern portion of the park along the Ramganga river valley, and to the main camp of Dhikala.

Jim Corbett (1875-1955) Hunter of man-eating tigers, photographer, conservationist and author, Jim Corbett was born in Nainital of English and Irish parentage. A childhood spent around the Corbett winter home of Kaladhungi (halfway between Nainital and Ramnagar, and now a rather disappointing memorial to him) brought young Jim into close communion with nature and to an instinctive understanding of jungle ways. After working on the railways, he joined the Indian army in 1917 at the age of 40, rising to the rank of Lieutenant Colonel, and seeing action in Flanders at the head of the 70th Kumaon Company. Known locally as "Carpet Sahib", a mispronunciation of his name, Jim Corbett was called upon time and time again to rid the hills of Kumaon of man-eating tigers and leopards. Normally shy of human contact, such animals become man-eaters when infirmity brought upon by old age or wounds renders them unable to hunt their usual prey. Many of those killed by Corbett were found to have suppurating wounds caused by porcupine quills embedded deep in their paws; tigers always seem to fall for the porcupine's simple defensive trick of walking backwards in line with its lethal quills. One of Corbett's most memorable exploits was the killing of the Champawat tiger, which was responsible for a documented 436 human deaths, and was bold enough to steal its victims from the midst of human habitation; he also terminated the careers of the Chowgarh tigress, the Talla Des and the Mohan man-eaters. By the mid-1930s, though, Corbett had become dismayed with the increasing number of hunters in the Himalayas and the resultant decline in wildlife, and diverted his energies into conservation, swapping his gun for a movie camera and spending months capturing tigers on film. His adventures are described in books such as My India, Jungle Lore and Man-Eaters of Kumaon; Martin Booth's Carpet Sahib is an excellent biography of a remarkable man. Awarded the Order of the British Empire in recognition of his lifelong work with nature, Jim Corbett was unhappy in post-Independence India, and left to retire in East Africa. He continued his conservation efforts until his death at the age of eighty.

Dhikala

Beautifully situated overlooking the Ramganga reservoir and the forested hills beyond, Corbett's main camp, DHIKALA, lies 49km northwest of Ramnagar. As you can only stray beyond the confines of the camp on elephant-back or in a car or Jeep, the whole place has something of the air of a military encampment. Accommodation, all bookable via the Corbett Tiger Reserve reception in Ramnagar, ranges from the 24 bunk beds in the Log Huts (Rs200) to more comfortable bungalows and cabins (Rs1000–3000) which sleep two. Indian and Western food is available in the KMVN-run Parvat restaurant, which also has a reading room and outdoor area where you can watch film shows on wildlife (in Hindi). The same quality food is served at cheaper prices and minus the 8 percent sales tax at a dhaba at the other end of the camp, which is frequented by the park staff and drivers. Entry fees into the park, payable at the Ramnagar reception centre, are higher here than at Ramnagar. It's normally possible to see plenty of animals and birds from the Dhikala watchtower, which is a 1km wander down the path near the restaurant (turn left at the crossroads of tracks); bring binoculars, remain quiet, and don't wear bright colours or perfume. Chital, sambar, and various other deer species find refuge in the savannah grasslands known as the chaur, behind the camp to the south, and tigers are occasionally drawn in looking for prey. Two-hour elephant rides (Rs250 per person; first-come-first-served) explore this sea of grass, rarely penetrating far into the deep jungles beyond; try to convince your mahout (elephant driver) to venture in, as they can be quite magical. On the way to Dhikala from the Dhangarhi gate, the road passes through magnificent forest - if you have your own transport, stop at the High Bank vantage point, and try to spot crocodile or even elephant on the river below. If it's late, you can stop for a night halt en route at the Sultan (Rs700-1000), Gairal (Rs1000-1500) and Sarapduli (Rs1000-1500) forest rest houses, bookable through the Reserve reception centre. The bungalows are surrounded by deep forest; as movement on foot is prohibited, you'll only see wild animals that stray close to or into the compound.

Ramnagar

Situated in the rich farm-belt of the terai, on the southeastern fringes of the great forests, the busy market town of RAMNAGAR is the administrative hub for Corbett Tiger Reserve. Permits and accommodation reservations are issued at the reception centre, about 200m north of the bus stand towards Nainital (see box "Moving on from Nainital"). There's little to do around Ramnagar itself except go fishing (Oct 1-June 30). At Lohachaur, 15km north along the River Kosi, good anglers are in with a chance of landing the legendary mahseer, a redoubtable battling river carp. Fishing permits must be sought from the Corbett Tiger Reserve reception centre; most resorts also arrange all-inclusive fishing trips. Ramnagar is served by frequent buses to and from Nainital and Ranikhet, 112km north. Buses arrive every half-hour or so after the eight-hour trip from Delhi; Delhi Transport Corporation run a semi-deluxe service (Rs120), and most of the alternatives are pretty basic. Although most tourists head straight to Dhikala in the park as soon as they arrive, Ramnagar does have some accommodation. The KMVN Tourist Lodge (Rs300–1000), next to the Corbett Tiger Reserve reception, is as institutional as usual, with a dorm (Rs60) as well as spartan doubles. A further 200m south on the main road, down the lane opposite Govind restaurant, the basic Everest (Rs150-300) has sunny balconies, but no running hot water in the attached bathrooms; a little further still is the cheaper, less salubrious Rameshwaram (Below Rs500), whose only advantage is that it's the quietest. On the main road, Govind is a good multi-cuisine restaurant, strongest on Indian food. There is no official currency exchange, though Anuradha confectionary store, 400m south of Govind, will change sterling, euros and dollars if you're really stuck. Moving on from Ramnagar, there are six daily government buses to Haridwar, three to Nainital and ten to Delhi. The only direct train to Delhi leaves at 9.10pm and arrives at 6.30am, with interminable stops along the way. For faster trains and connections to other parts change at Moradabad. The nearest airport, at Pantnagar, 80km southeast, is rarely used.

Organizing entry into Corbett Tiger Reserve

All visitors to Corbett Tiger Reserve have to obtain permits from the Ramnagar reception centre (daily 8am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm; &05947/251489), and are advised to book accommodation at least 30 days in advance (20 days for Indian nationals). If you've turned up on the off-chance of getting accommodation, poor communication between the tourist zones in the reserve, the Delhi booking office and the HQ means you may be told that rooms (and dorms) are fully booked, when they are in fact empty. No accommodation means no visiting permit, so booking thirty days ahead saves a lot of hassle. To get a permit, you have to pay at the reception centre for your entry fee, the vehicle and driver entry fees, and your accommodation. A tariff sheet spells out the various costs; foreigners pay up to nine times as much as Indian nationals.

Jeeps, the most convenient way to travel to and around the reserve, can only be rented at Ramnagar. Reckon on Rs1200 per day from the KMVN Tourist Lodge, or from Girish at Govind restaurant. Although not as reliable, private Jeeps, readily available outside the bus stand, are better value, costing from around Rs1000 for 24hr. As none of the traffic into the park is regulated, shop around and be clear about what you're getting for your money (fuel, a 3hr safari and driver camping fee should all be included). A Petrol 4WD, such as a Maruti Gypsy, is best as it is quiet (if the brakes are well maintained) and built for the terrain. All jeep safaris must be accompanied by a guide (another Rs125) - who may or may not be able to identify wildlife and speak English, and is allotted to your jeep by a rota system. If you require a guide with specific knowledge (eg for birding), write or fax the Field Director one month in advance with your request (Corbett Tiger Reserve, Ramnagar 244715, Nainital, Uttaranchal).

Note: that Corbett is only open between 15 November and 15 June. Between June and November the monsoons flood the riverbanks, and cut the fragile road links.

A number of self-contained hotels and resorts are springing up on the fringes of Corbett, providing a higher standard of accommodation than in Dhikala or Ramnagar - at a price - as well as guides for expeditions in the neighbouring forests, which can be as rich in wildlife as the park, without the restrictions.

Corbett now has a good range of places to stay and eat. Some of the best and inexpensive places of accomodation are :-

• Infinity Resort
• Call Of The Wild Safari Lodge
• Claridges Corbett Hideaway
• Corbett Camp
• Corbett Ramganga Resort
• Corbett River Side Resort
• Tiger Camp
• Solluna Resort

If you are planning to visit Corbett Tiger Reserve you can refer the Corbett Accomodation Guide

Corbett Tiger Reserve is India’s first and one of her finest Tiger Reserves. It supports a strong historical background, which can be traced from the early 1800 when it's forests were private property of the rulers of the princely state of Tehri Garhwal.

This is one of my favourite camp outs in India, Try your luck to see those big wild cats out there... !