Pushkar Camel Festival

What to Expect at the World's Largest Camel Fair.....

It's possible to buy a decent camel for around $500 in India, and there's no better place to make a selection than at the Pushkar camel festival.

Indians refer to a fair or festival as a ‘mela’. However, the words more likely to be at the forefront of a westerner’s mind are mayhem and madness. A perfect example of this is the world’s largest camel fair, held every year in Pushkar during the Hindu lunar month of Kartika (which usually falls sometime in November).



The population of Pushkar is normally a relatively tiny 15,000 people. However this explodes to over 200,000 people and 50,000 camels during the festival. At this time, the camels and their owners arrive from all directions and take up residence in makeshift tents in the neighbouring desert. They’re accompanied by the many visiting Indian families who camp out indiscriminately in the open at the edge of the town.

The Legend of Pushkar
Pushkar is an idyllic town in the middle of India's Rajasthan desert. It's full of whitewashed buildings, and is surrounded by hills on three sides and sand dunes on the other. The main feature of Pushkar is its lake. According to Hindu legend, it was made from a lotus flower dropped by Lord Brahma, the Creator, when looking for a place to perform a holy ritual on a full moon night.

Pilgrims who bathe in the lake’s waters believe they will be absolved of their sins. The four days between Kartika Shukla Ekadashi (the eleventh day of Kartika) and Kartika Purnima (the Kartika full moon) are viewed as being the most auspicious. Those who bathe on the day of the full moon are said to receive special blessings. Most of the camel action takes place over the 5 days leading up to the official start of the camel fair on Kartika Shukla Ekadashi, after which time the focus shifts to heightened religious celebrations.



Arriving in Pushkar
Arrival in Pushkar is either by taxi or heaving, dilapidated local bus from Ajmer – 11 kilometres away through the hills. Eager luggage-wallahs immediately assail disembarking tourists and quickly load their bags on to hand drawn carts, which they proceed to pull through the mazes of dusty winding streets to a motley assortment of hotels. Meanwhile, luggage owners follow behind in a daze, absorbed by the sight around them.

The streets are lined with mobile chai (tea) vendors, and hawkers selling everything from clothes and jewellery to decorative items and handicrafts. Everywhere is a dazzling display of brightly coloured turbans, scarves and sarees worn by the Indian people for the festive occasion. One can’t help but be mesmerised.

What to See at the Camel Festival
The scene of the camel fair is just as striking. The sand dunes appeared infested with camels as far as the eyes can see. These camels are dressed up, paraded, entered into beauty contests, raced, and of course traded. Some camels even have their hair shaved into patterns to help them stand out from the rest. Along with these peculiar and amusing activities, the crowds are entertained well into each evening by an array of musicians, magicians, dancers, acrobats, snake charmers and carousel rides. Anyone game enough to get close to the centre of these activities runs the risk of being suddenly pulled into the fanfare, encouraged by the frenzied clapping, singing and musical melodies of the other participants.

The Pushkar camel fair provides a fascinating insight into Indian culture and way of life, and will leave a deep imprint in your memory. It’s likely that you’ll return to you hotel room feeling quite overwhelmed but captivated by what you’ve seen and experienced. As you lay on your bed, in the distance you may be able to faintly hear chanting and the ringing of bells that accompany the ancient religious ceremonies, and you’ll know that you’re in the midst of something very special.

Accomodation on Indian Railways

Most people find themselves becoming confused during the planning phase of their journey, as they attempt to make sense of the 4 or 5 different classes of accommodation available on long distance trains in India. This includes the general seated compartment, sleeper class, 3 tier air conditioned sleeper (3AC), 2 tier air conditioned sleeper (2AC), and 1st class air conditioned sleeper (1AC). Before booking your ticket, it's recommended that you give honest thought to your travelling and privacy requirements.



Many visitors feel compelled to travel sleeper class so that they can come into close contact with their idea of the 'real India'. The majority of India's large middle class population travels in sleeper class, and you'll encounter people from all walks of life. Keep in mind though that while a day spent in sleeper class can be entertaining, longer journeys can take their toll as a result of the constant heat, noise and dirt. If you don’t like being woken at 6am, then sleeper class isn’t for you.

The air conditioned carriages are much cleaner and more restful, however they distinctly lack the spirited nature of sleeper class. Their upper class occupants can be less than stimulating, although the relatively high standard of these people’s personal habits shouldn’t be under rated on long distance journeys. Since comfort levels are higher in the air conditioned compartments, passengers find less need to interact with eachother to distract themselves from their journey. There's also less interaction with the outside world, including food vendors at stations, as windows are sealed with tinted glass and are unable to be opened.

A good option that balances comfort and cost is 3AC. Carriages are laid out in the same manner as sleeper class, with 6 berths per compartment, but you get the added benefit of air conditioning. In 2AC, you'll also get privacy curtains and more room, with only 4 berths in each compartment. 1AC offers compartments for two, with lockable doors, for a cost comparable to that of flying.

For those wanting some extra personal space, but without the extravagance of 1AC, a side berth in one of the other classes is recommended. These berths are located outside each compartment, along the aisle. However, if you're taller than around 175cm you might yourself a bit cramped, as these berths are enclosed on both ends and are shorter than the ones inside the compartments. Where possible, it’s also advisable to book an upper berth. You won't have to share it with anyone, whereas the lower berths act as seats for everyone during the day.



Travel in the general seated compartment is best avoided on long journeys. This is the only carriage on the train where reservations aren't requried. Most seats are simply wooden benches, although plastic padded benches may be found on some trains. It's in this compartment that any visions you may have of people hanging out the doors of Indian trains will become a reality, as overcrowding is taken to new levels.

There's no doubt that each type of compartment offers a certain, unique type of experience. If you choose the right level of accomodation to suit your requirements, its likely that you'll have an enchanting trip on a railway system that's so essential to Indian life.

A High Walk Through Rupshu and Changthang

Covering an area of about 60,000 square kilometers and ranging in elevation from 2,600 meters to 7,670 meters, Ladakh is sandwiched between two huge mountain systems: the Karakorams to the north and the Himalayas to the south. Ladakh is the Trans-Himalayan region, the region of impact when the Indian subcontinent collided with the rest of Asia 50 million years ago.

One of the several geographic regions formed as a result of this impact is the Rupshu, a dry, high-altitude plateau lying southeast of Ladakh. It forms part of the larger area of Changthang, which spreads east into Tibet for about 1,500 kilometers and whose landscape is characterized by rolling mountains, vast plains and massive brackish lakes. It is an area which, due to its remoteness and proximity to Tibet, retained much of the character of the Tibetan way of life, with regular trade and barter continuing and trade routes being utilized as they were since they were first discovered. These routes offer exciting avenues for anybody game for a high-altitude adventure and an appetite for some of the most incredible sights in this far-flung corner of the sub-continent.

The Border Roads Organization does a great job linking the frontiers of the country with their masterful artistry of making motorable lanes out of sheer rock. This appreciable effort of theirs is resented by only a few who, aided by sheer wanderlust, make the effort to travel to places not yet encroached by the bulldozer. Some trails, however, remain as pristine as they were when the first man walked them, and now, thanks to the roads, these routes are more accessible, even to the office busybee.

One such route connects the Spiti valley with Ladakhi Changthang, and is still used as the main trail for trade and travel in these areas. The Parang La (pass), at 5,600 meters, forms the source of the Pare Chu river, an amazing river system which rises to the north of the Parang La, traveling 30 kilometers eastwards and turning sharply south to enter Tibet. After flowing 85 kilometers through the plateau, it changes its course westerly to re-enter India near its confluence with the Spiti river at Sumdo, on the Hindustan Tibet road, 33 kilometers before reaching Tabo.

The Parang La is the traditional trade route between the people of Spiti, Changthang and Tibet. From Spiti, the trail begins in the high-altitude meadows of Kibber (14,000 feet), a two-hour drive from Kaza, the district headquarters of Spiti. Kaza is also the venue of the Ladarcha, an annual cultural fair which was initially a trading festival that took place in the surrounding higher meadows. Kibber is the breeding ground of the famous Spiti horses and also known to be snow leopard country.

Kibber has an ancient monastery worth a visit, and is also mentioned in most guidebooks as the highest motorable village, but now the road has apparently reached Tashigang, 18 kilometers uphill. On the way from Kaza to Kibber, one passes Kye village, which prides itself on being home to the largest monastery in Spiti, the Kye gompa is well worth a visit. From Kibber, which is also the roadhead on the Spiti side of events, the trail descends the scenic Kibber gorge and climbs to village Dumla, a small green bowl arriving in time for a last cup of butter tea for the next ten days. Dumla happens to be the last inhabitation till Karzog, more than one week's walk away.

A stiff climb above Dumla is rewarded with views of Parilungbi (Lingti valley) and Shilla, and the first day's camp is at Thaltak meadow below a small pass crossing the Thaltak La. Shilla (6,132 meters) remained an altitude record for 47 years after it was climbed in 1860 by a khalasi of the Survey of India. Inaccurate height computation contributed to the record until a modern survey reduced it by nearly 3,000 feet.

An early morning's start the next day begins with a gut-wrenching descent to Rongchu nalla, followed by a climb upstream for an hour. The actual climb towards the Parang La begins now with a climb on scree for nearly four hours. Camp at Bongrochen, meaning "donkey's corpse," does not come too soon as the altitude begins to take its toll on the system and the going, however exciting, does get a bit slow.

The Spiti side of the divide is extremely dry and sunburnt, but with hardly any snow conditions to be encountered. All along the route, one is held captive by the deep gorges and wind-battered rock formations, which characterize the first few days towards the Parang La. Bongrochen, the last camp before crossing the Parang La from the Spiti side, is in a bowl surrounded by high mountains on either side, and the Parang La is nowhere in sight.

An early start is mandatory the next morning, as the other side of the pass has heavy snow conditions. If one is lucky, a herd of sheep, who cross the pass with packs of barley strapped on to each of them, provide good company. The final gradient to the pass is extremely steep, and it takes a good couple of hours to finally haul oneself over the top. But once there, a complete change of terrain more than compensates for the lifetime it takes to climb over this 18,500-foot-high crossing. The pass on the Pare Chu side is snow-clad, and a broad valley greets you looking down towards the broad flood plain of the river.

There are a few well-camouflaged deep crevasses directly below the pass, which invariably claim a few sheep each year as they are shepherded over the "la." Spiti horses are taken over to the Changthang side, where they are sold to the Changpas (nomads of Changthang) for money or pashmina in return. Sticking to the right of the pass on the descent, one crosses the Pare Chu at the mouth of the glacier over a not-so-stable snow bridge. The horses need to be coaxed here, as they invariably show a little reluctance while crossing what with the river raging a few feet below.

The advantage of starting this trip from Spiti is that, after the first few days of continuous ascent, the descent is fairly continuous for the next few days, though not entirely effortless, making the walk really enjoyable. Camp is set a few kilometers below the mouth of the river at Dak Karzong, a green meadow on the banks of the Pare Chu. A chance meeting with a traveler from Karzog is not ruled out, though they usually are in more of a hurry, going the entire distance in four days.

The river begins to divide itself over several channels now, and the valley is nearly a kilometer and a half wide. Crossing its many channels is part of the day's work as we work our way downstream. The next two days are spent walking along the river through green meadows and wind formations (called "kathpa boozae") not very many people have seen to date.

A week after having left Kibber, we reach the confluence of the Pare Chu with the Phirtse Phu at Norbu Sumdo. A river crossing here brings one to an almost incredible change of landscape as we walk north towards the Rupshu plains of Changthang. Camp for the night is at Chumik Shilale, a parrot-green meadow set in wide green plains and low, rolling, sun-kissed hills. From now on, spotting the Changthang wolf remains a very good possibility.

At Norbu Sumdo, we part company with the Pare Chu, which flows south from the confluence to flow into Tibet, past Chumur, India's last outpost along its border with Tibet. Three years ago, I had visited Chumur as part of the first successful attempt to reach the base and make an attempt on Gya (6,794 meters), lying on the tri-junction of Tibet, J&K and Himachal Pradesh. Gya is also the highest mountain in Himachal Pradesh, a wonderfully elusive mountain and one of the finest rock-climbing challenges left. It had initially baffled a number of good-sized expeditions that tried to reach its base. Gya, or Kalcham Gyalmo, forms a grand backdrop as one walks away from Norbu Sumdo towards Karzog, remaining visible until we leave Karzog.

A few kilometers from Chumik Shilale lies Kiangdom, named after the abundance of Kiangs, the Tibetan wild ass found here. The walk toward Tso Moriri over a scree slope, with the lake and its delta visible, sends the adrenalin levels up as the enormity of the lake sinks in. Kiangdom lies at the southern edge of the Tso Moriri (15,000 feet), a high-altitude lake 27 kilometerss long and nearly 8 kilometers wide. This lake is the breeding ground for the bar-headed goose, the black-necked crane and the Brahminy duck.

Kiangdom needs to be visited in order to realize the immense beauty of this area, opened only in1994 to visitors.
The trail goes along the Tso Moriri until we reach Karzog, a permanent settlement and also the roadhead. The lake makes a fitting finale to a trek through landscape seemingly out of a picture postcard. A day or two spent here is a great idea, since it allows visitors to take in the sights and sounds of the Buddhist way of life. Another worthwhile visit is to one of the Changpa settlements in a bowl high above Karzog, where this hardy people lives in yak-skin tents and breeds yaks and pashmina, one of the trade items to go over these high passes.

A four-hour drive from the Tso, passing through equally scenic terrain, lies Tsokar, a salt lake which was once the source of nearly all of Ladakh's salt supply. The road climbs away from Karzog to Kiagar Tso, a smaller lake above Tso Moriri. According to locals, Kiagar Tso was part of the Tso Moriri until both receded. The motorable road passes through hot sulphur springs at Puga, which is well known for its healing powers, as several locals and people from Leh will gladly testify.

The dusty road climbs on to Polo Gonka, a small pass before the descent to the huge bowl of Tsokar. Large salt mounds litter the lake, and the water is expectedly extremely uncomfortable to taste. There is one convenient spot to camp next to a fresh water source on the banks of Tsokar. It is not surprising to see Kiangs run along and overtake the vehicle one is traveling in.

On the opposite bank from the campsite is the village of Tugche, which boasts of a massive wolf trap and an ancient monastery. From the monastery, one can see the watermarks of the lake, which at one time was nearly 200 to 300 feet higher than what it has presently receded to.

Four kilometers from Tsokar, one meets the main Manali-Leh highway before the climb to Taglang La, the world's second-highest motorable pass. A comfortable four-hour drive away lies Leh, the capital of Ladakh, the highest and largest district in the country. It's a fitting end to having experienced firsthand the enormous scale and the rugged, weather-beaten beauty of a region that remains much of a magical mystery and, for some of us, the end of a rainbow.

GETTING THERE
From Delhi: Fly/ Drive to Kullu. Drive on to Manali. Cross the Rohtang and take diversion at Gramphoo to Chattru. Continue on to Spiti via Batal, Kunzum La, Losar and Kaza. Kibber is two hours from Kaza.

Hire a jeep from Manali to Kibber. For self-driven vehicles, high suspension a must. A longer drive from Shimla to Kibber via Rampur, Kalpa, Tabo and Kaza is also a possibility.

SEASON
July to September (depending on the opening of the higher passes)

TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS
Permits for foreigners (minimum 04) required to be processed at DC Office, Kaza. Permits for Tso Moriri to be arranged to reach Karzog.
Good acclimatization a must for this trip. Take at least three overnight stops between Manali and Kibber.
Making arrangements through a reputed tour operator who will make all permit/transport arrangements, besides taking care of all trekking logistics, is recommended. Make sure you meet your trekking guide before you leave.

WHERE TO STAY
PWD guest house at Chattru/ Set up your own Camp.
PWD guest house at Losar/ Set up your own Camp.
Kaza: Hotel Sakya's Abode. Clean rooms with food available.
Kibber: Hotel Parang La. Setting up camp recommended.
Karzog - Set up your own camp.

GETTING OUT
Arrange transport to meet at Karzog for drive to Leh.
Fly Leh to Delhi.

DISTANCES
Delhi-Manali (6,700 feet): 570kms
Manali-Chattru (11,670 feet): 79kms
Chattru-Losar (13,350 feet): 62kms
Losar-Kaza (11,800 feet): 58kms
Karzog-Leh (11,500 feet): 226kms

Adventure Sports in Kullu Region

Kullu terrain is almost mountainous. To popularise the mountaineering and allied sports the Mountaineering Institute second of its kind in the country was established at Chadhiari near the hot springs of Vashist Village in September, 1961. The first training course conducted by the Institute was in Nov-Dev, 1961 and the Institute was known as Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (WHMI), with the coming up of its own complex in the year 1976. The Institute was shifted to present location, Aleo Bihal, Manali and since then it is know as the Department of Mountaineering and Allied Sports.

Training in snow skiing was started in early 1970 at Solang Nala Ski-slopes. High Altitude Trekking was also started in 1970 and thereafter in order to conduct adventure and rock-climbing, specific courses were introduced. The Institute also imparts mountaineering and rescue training to the people living in the tribal area. For this us pose two mountaineering sub-centres were established at Jispa in Lahaul & Spiti district and Bharmaur in Chamba district in the year 1979. In order to help people to cross over Rohtang Pass to Lahaul & Spiti or Manali during winter months, the Directorate sets-up rescue posts at Marhi and Koksar from 15th November to 31st December and 1st March to 15ht May.

For trainees arrangement of boarding and lodging is made by the institution. The trekkers can also hire the needed equipments or articles from the institution.


Angling
Trout fish is found in large quantity in river Beas and its tributaries Parvati, Sainj, Trithan, Manikaran and Katrain areas. So fishing in Kullu district is an anglers paradise and this sport is catching up day by day. Tirthan river is particularly rich in brown trout fish where natural breeding of the fish takes place. The license for angling can be obtained from Fisheries Office, Kullu, Patlikulh, Larji & Banjar or from Tourist Office, Kullu and Manali. The Department of Fisheries are also organising angling tournament every year in April and in Sept-October.



Ideal trout beasts: River Beas (Katrain to Manali, 18 Km), Trithan Stream (Larji to Nagani, 20 Km), Sainj Stream (Larji to Ropa, 22 Km), Lambadug Stream (Barot to Lahoradi, 6 Km), Uhi Stream (Barot to Kothikad, 10 Km) and Sangla Bridge to Farm (5 Km).

Fishing Rates: Trout Waters - Rod & Lines: Rs.100/- per day. General Waters - Rod & Lines: Rs.40/- per day.
Close Season: Trout Water: From November to Las day of February each year. General Waters: From 1st June to 31 July each year.


Trekking
Kullu valley provides easiest as well as adventurous trekking paths to trekking lovers. Most of the routes pass though rugged and unspoiled beautiful valleys with aws inspiring glens, mossy meadows, deep forests inter woven by rushing streams and running brooks. Kullu-Manali valleys are full of real mountains and give comparatively easy access to them.



April to mid June and mid September to mid October is the best season for trekking. Tourist Development Corporation of Himachal Pradesh in collaboration with Department of Mountaineering and Allied Sports, Manali and some other agencies arrange trekking expeditions. The charges include hiring of equipment, porters, transportations, meals and medical facilities and optionally, the approved high altitude guides and porters can also be hired. The accommodation in HPPWD-Rest Houses or Forest Rest House can be arranged through XEN or SE, PWD and Divisional Forest Office (DFO) of that area.


White Water Rafting
White water rafting is a thrilling as well as adventurous sports. In Kullu, Badah to Jhiri is a nine kilometer long down stream journey path. It takes rafters four hours to reach the destination. The water of river Beas is fast and water waves are dancing, giving the rafters an exciting experience. Rafting is available only in the period of May to July, that is summer only. Professional companies from private sectors make the necessary equipments & gears available to rafters. Each rafter is provided with a life jacket and a helmet. They are expected to wear a specific dress. An experienced guide and helper is also provided to the rafters.



Skiing
Skiing is possible in winter season (mid Dec to end of June) only when there is a thick layer of snow on the hills. It this view, the Solang Nala is the best consideration for skiing. The Mountaineering Institute, Manali is imparting training in skiing along with its other activities and training courses. Some professional skiers are also conducting the skiing courses. Skiing tournaments are also organised at national and international level. Bhrigu peaks and slopes near Hamta are perhaps the best slopes in the world for skiing. Winter skiing is organised at Solang whereas in summer, skiing is organised at Rohtang slopes.


Heli-Skiing
It is a new sport in India but is picking up in Manali. The helli skiers are dropped on mountains and ridges as high as 5500 mt by a helicopter. The skiers are in group of three equipped with a guide for safety. It also removes the pressure on less experienced or learners. This sport requires enough snow hence it is possible in the peak winter season. Private companies provide packages for heli-skiing.



Para Gliding
This sport too is in its initial stage but gaining popularity in Kullu. It is very thrilling sport. The high hills are natural launching sites for para gliding. Bhaikhali (9 km from Kullu, easily approachable by vehicle), Bijli Mahadev and Slang slopes are ideal locations for para-gliding. The best season for this sport is May-June and Sept-Oct. At Manali, the facility of seven days training course is available. Bijli Mahadev is approachable by own vehicle via Naggar or upto Chansari on vehical and three km on foot, with landing sites are both Dhalpur ground and Bhunter Airport.

History of Indian Railways

Indian Railways has a total state monopoly on India's rail transport. It is one of the largest and busiest rail networks in the world, transporting sixteen million passengers and more than one million tonnes of freight daily. IR is the world's largest commercial or utility employer, with more than 1.6 million employees. The railways traverse the length and breadth of the country; the routes cover a total length of 63,140 km (39,233 miles). As of 2002, IR owned a total of 216,717 wagons, 39,263 coaches and 7,739 locomotives and ran a total of 14,444 trains daily, including about 8,702 passenger trains. Railways were first introduced to India in 1853. By 1947, the year of India's independence, there were forty-two rail systems. In 1951 the systems were nationalized as one unit, becoming one of the largest networks in the world. Indian Railways operates both long distance and suburban rail systems.

A plan for a rail system in India was first put forward in 1832, but no further steps were taken for more than a decade. In 1844, the Governor-General of India Lord Hardinge allowed private entrepreneurs to set up a rail system in India. Two new railway companies were created and the East India Company was asked to assist them. Interest from investors in the UK led to the rapid creation of a rail system over the next few years. The first train in India became operational on 22 December 1851, and was used for the hauling of construction material in Roorkee. A year and a half later, on 16 April 1853, the first passenger train service was inaugurated between Bori Bunder, Bombay and Thane. Covering a distance of 34 km (21 miles), it was hauled by three locomotives, Sahib, Sindh and Sultan. This was the formal birth of railways in India.

The British government encouraged new railway companies backed by private investors under a scheme that would guarantee an annual return of five percent during the initial years of operation. Once established, the company would be transferred to the government, with the original company retaining operational control. The route mileage of this network was about 14,500 km (9,000 miles) by 1880, mostly radiating inward from the three major port cities of Bombay (Mumbai), Madras (Chennai) and Calcutta ( Kolkata). By 1895, India had started building its own locomotives, and in 1896 sent engineers and locomotives to help build the Uganda Railway.

Soon various independent kingdoms built their own rail systems and the network spread to the regions that became the modern-day states of Assam, Rajasthan and Andhra Pradesh. A Railway Board was constituted in 1901, but decision-making power was retained by the Viceroy, Lord Curzon. The Railway Board operated under aegis of the Department of Commerce and Industry and had three members: a government railway official serving as chairman, a railway manager from England and an agent of one of the company railways. For the first time in its history, the Railways began to make a tidy profit. In 1907, almost all the rail companies were taken over by the government.



The following year, the first electric locomotive appeared. With the arrival of the First World War, the railways were used to meet the needs of the British outside India. By the end of the First World War, the railways had suffered immensely and were in a poor state. The government took over the management of the Railways and removed the link between the financing of the Railways and other governmental revenues in 1920, a practice that continues to date with a separate railway budget.

The Second World War severely crippled the railways as trains were diverted to the Middle East, and the railway workshops were converted into munitions workshops. At the time of independence in 1947, a large portion of the railways went to the then newly formed Pakistan. A total of forty-two separate railway systems, including thirty-two lines owned by the former Indian princely states, were amalgamated as a single unit which was christened as the Indian Railways.

The existing rail networks were abandoned in favour of zones in 1951 and a total of six zones came into being in 1952. As the economy of India improved, almost all railway production units were indigenised. By 1985, steam locomotives were phased out in favour of diesel and electric locomotives. The entire railway reservation system was streamlined with computerisation in 1995.

source: wikipedia

Few things not to miss during India tour

It's not possible to see everything India has to offer in one trip, and we don't suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the country's highlights: outstanding buildings, natural wonders, spectacular festivals and unforgettable journeys. They're arranged in five colour-coded categories, which you can browse through to find the very best things to see and experience.

I start with oen of my favourite palce : The Manali-Leh Highway

Since it opened to foreign tourists in 1989, the famous Manali-Leh highway has replaced the old Srinagar-Kargil route as the most popular approach to Ladakh. In summer, a stream of vehicles set off from the Kullu Valley to travel along the second-highest road in the world, which reaches a dizzying altitude of 5328m. Its surface varies wildly from fairly smooth asphalt through potholes of differing depths to dirt tracks sliced by glacial streams, traversing a starkly beautiful lunar wilderness. Depending on road conditions, the 485-kilometre journey can take anything from twenty-six to thirty hours. Bus drivers cover more distance on the first day than the second, stopping for a short and chilly night in one of the overpriced tent camps along the route. These, however, are few and far between after September 15, when the highway officially closes; in practice, all this means is that the Indian government won't airlift you out if you get trapped in snow, and consequently some companies run regardless until the passes become blocked in mid to late October.

Manali to Keylong
Once out of Manali, the road begins its long ascent of the Rohtang Pass (3978m). Buses pull in for breakfast 17km before the pass at a row of makeshift dhabas at Marhi (3360m). Though not all that high by Himalayan standards, the pass itself is one of the most treacherous in the region and every year Gaddis and mountaineers are caught unawares by sudden weather changes - hence Rohtang's name, which literally means "piles of dead bodies". The road descends from Rohtang to the floor of the Chandra Valley, finally reaching the river at Koksar, little more than a scruffy collection of chai stalls with a checkpoint where you have to enter passport details in a ledger - one of many such stops on the road to Leh. The next few hours are among the most memorable on the entire trip. Bus seats on the left are best, as the road runs across the northern slopes of the valley through the first Buddhist settlements, hemmed in by towering peaks and hanging glaciers towards Keylong.


Keylong to Sarchu Serai
Beyond Keylong, the Bhaga Valley broadens, but its bare sides support very few villages. By the time you reach Darcha, a lonely cluster of dry-stone huts and dingy tent camps, the landscape is utterly denuded. All buses stop here for passengers to grab a hot bowl of Tibetan thukpa from a wayside dhaba. There's little else to do in Darcha, though the Shingo La trailhead - the main trekking route north to Zanskar - is on the outskirts. If you are not on one of the through Manali-Leh buses, you're better off stopping at JISPA 7km south, a pleasant little hamlet with ample camping along the river as well as the upmarket Hotel Jispa (Telephone01900/233203; Rs1000-1500), whose breakfasts are legendary among passing cycle tourists; they also have dorm beds for Rs200. One kilometre before the Jispa, the Mountaineering Institute arranges mountaineering and rescue courses in summer through tour agencies in Manali, and may also provide accommodation.From Darcha, the road climbs steadily northeast to the Baralacha La pass. On the other side, buses stop for the night at SARCHU SERAI, where HPTDC's Tent Camp (Rs300-500), a rather ordinary affair, serves steaming plates of rice, dhal and veg, as do a handful of similarly priced dhabas nearby. There are several more expensive camps dotted along the road charging up to Rs800 per person including food. Note that Sarchu Serai is 2500m higher than Manali, and travellers coming straight from Manali might suffer from the higher altitude here.


Sarchu Serai to Taglang La
Sarchu Serai packs up for the season from September 15. Northbound buses thereafter press on over Lachuglang La (5019m), the second highest pass on the highway, to the tent camp at PANG (4500m), which stays open longer. Unfortunately, this means that the drive through one of the most dramatic stretches of the route, through an incredible canyon, is in darkness. North of Pang, the road heads up to the fourth and final pass, the Taglang La, a dizzying 5360m, the highest point on the Manali-Leh highway. Drivers pull in for a quick spin of the prayer wheels and a brief photo session alongside the sign exclaiming "Unbelievable! Is not it?". Staring north beyond the multicoloured tangle of prayer flags across Ladakh to the Karakoram Range, just visible on the horizon, you may well agree.

Taglang La to Leh
From Taglang La, 40km of switchbacks deliver you from the windswept pass through a purple-hued gorge to the neat, kidney-shaped barley fields and the white chortens of Ladakhi villages. At Upshi, the road reaches the dramatic Indus Valley, tracing the Indus River past slender poplars, sprawling army camps and ancient monasteries. Traffic builds as you approach Choglamsar, then climb the final dusty kilometres to Leh - past the world's highest golf course - through the modern outskirts to the haberdashers, canny traders and wrinkled apricot-sellers of Leh's Main Bazaar.

List of little things you can do to help the environment

Conserving our environment may not always be on the forefront of our thoughts. If it isn't, here are some simple ways to help the environment without making drastic life changes. It is so easy to go about our daily life never giving a second thought to that styrofoam cup we just threw out that held our morning cup of coffee or without thinking about the fact that our gas-guzzling SUV that could easily hold eight people has never seated more than two people at a time in the two years we've owned it. Very few people can honestly say that they are concerned about our environment and the way it deteriorates on a daily basis. We are so concerned with paying our bills and living for the moment that we feel we don't have enough time to worry about conserving. The fact of the matter is that we can do quite a bit for the environment and its conservation just by changing the little things we do on a daily basis. We don't have to rush out and buy the newest hybrid car or start growing our own vegetable garden in our back yard to help the environment. We simply need to make a few small changes and teach those changes to those around us and we will help the environment in a big way.

* If you have heard it once, you have heard it a million times: recycle. If your neighborhood does not currently participate in a recycling program, find a local organization that does and take your recyclable items there. Perhaps you can begin a letter-writing campaign to your local homeowner's association to start a recycling program in your own neighborhood.

* You know those times your printer spits out a blank sheet or an extra sheet? You usually crumple them up and throw them away, right? Instead of doing that, put those scrap papers into a scrap tray which you can use to write to-do lists and grocery lists or to use in your children's school projects.

* When you pack your lunch or your kid's lunch, chances are you use those resealable plastic baggies. Instead of throwing them out when they've been used to haul a sandwich, bring them back home and rinse them out. You can easily reuse them for your next lunch.

* It is so easy to go to the grocery store and buy plastic cutlery and styrofoam plates to throw away after they've been used. Don't. It only takes a little extra time to use your normal dishes and wash them.

* If you love subscribing to different magazines and have a pile of read magazines just sitting in a rack, instead of trashing them, take them to your office and let others read them or donate them to Goodwill or the Salvation Army. If you have a group of friends who have different magazine subscriptions, instead of ordering the magazine yourself, trade the magazines around. Let your friends borrow your magazines and borrow theirs.

* When getting dressed each day and taking our daily shower, we waste so much money just by letting the water run as we soap up or shave our legs. Get a water conservation shower head that allows you to easily turn off the water as you perform these shower chores.

* On the same note, turn off the water while you are brushing your teeth or washing your face instead of letting it run as you lather up.

* While it may be easier to use paper towels which you can throw away after using, use kitchen towels or cloth napkins instead. It is much better to use water to wash these items than to fill our landfill with tons of paper towels!

* Instead of throwing out those plastic tubs we get from butter/margarine, sour cream, yogurt and whipped cream, reuse these tubs for leftovers.

* If your husband or wife works someplace that is on the way to your own place of work, carpool. Shift your schedules around just a few minutes each day so you can ride in together and save gas AND money.

* Instead of driving your car around the block to check your mail, ride your bike or walk and get some fresh air.